Your Custom Text Here
Town Guide: Moretonhampstead
Our guide to the best things to do and places to visit in Dartmoor’s artisan town, Moretonhampstead.
Sleepy Moretonhampstead is gaining a reputation as an artisan town, with Georgian streets crammed with artists and craftspeople. Here’s our guide to the best things to do and places to eat in Moretonhampstead.
MORETONHAMPSTEAD PUBS, RESTAURANTS AND CAFES
The Horse
You've got to love a place that bills itself as a 'pub and nosebag'. Despite the village location, The Horse is a hip gastropub that wouldn't feel out of place in the big city: it serves simple, well-done food including tapas, mussels, home-cured tuna, chargrilled rib-eye and lots of pizzas.
Cross Street Cafe
The Cross Street Cafe is perfect moorland refuelling stop: olives and local cheeses sit alongside pasties, pies and tempting cakes. It does takeaway hot drinks, too.
MORETONHAMPSTEAD SHOPS
Zero
Thislovely zero-waste shop is crammed with organic produce, including pastas, pulses, grains, granolas, chocolates, herbs, spices and dried fruit – all free of plastic and pesticides. You can buy just what you need for you holiday - the idea is you take your own container – whether it’s a Tupperware, tin can or reusable bag, fill up with food, weigh and pay. They have recyclable brown paper bags if you don’t have you own container. There’s not a plastic bag in sight, nor anything wrapped in the shiny stuff. This is a not-for-profit community project about consuming food and everyday products in a way that doesn’t cost the earth. Visit Zero Waste for more information.
Michael Howard’s
Michael Howard’s is a family-run butchers sells lamb from Sanduct in nearby Lustleigh, beef from Dexter or Belted Galaways, speciality sausages, fish landed in Brixham and meat cuts that you will not be able to find in supermarkets. The delicatessen selection includes Otter Vale chutneys, Midfields Granola, Underdown butter, Sharpham cheeses, Salcombe Dairy ice-cream and Creedy Carver chicken.
The Grocers
Sells fresh fruit and vegetables, along with local produce including organic Challon Farm milk.
BOOK A BREAK
Rent a beautiful thatched holiday cottage near Moretonhampstead, with prices starting at £130.
THINGS TO DO IN MORETONHAMPSTEAD
Green Shoes
With her company listed as one of world’s most ethical shoemakers, Alison Hastie and her small Green Shoes team hand-makes footwear to order, using full-grain leathers and vegan alternatives, in a beautiful chapel. Alison welcomes visitors. Please check her website for opening hours.
Greg Abel at The Forge
One of just a handful of blacksmiths left on Dartmoor, Greg works in a 150-year-old stone forge, where vintage farm and farriers’ tools, made by previous smithies, still hang from the rafters. Greg uses traditional coal in the original hearth rather than gas, which is now more commonly used, while hammer and anvil still his main tools. Greg’s products include gates, railings, fireside sets, weather vanes, rose arches, knives, coat hooks and shoe-scrapers, which he makes for the local community. Greg welcomes drop-ins, but please call beforehand. Greg runs short courses on which you can learn to make a fire poker, toasting fork, letter opener, coat hook or barbecue butler. His website has details.
Yuli Somme at Bellacouche
Bellacouche is the UK’s only remaining maker of burial shrouds, a funereal tradition dating from the 17th century, when law decreed that the dead must be buried in wool. Yuli also makes felt urns for cremated remains, hot-water bottle covers, tea cosies, pillows, seat pads and hats which she sells in her Moretonhampstead studio, which doubles as a Unitarian chapel. Yuli welcomes visitors. Prior arrangement not required. Please check her website for opening hours.
Penny Simpson Ceramics
From her pottery studio in the artisan town of Moretonhampstead, Penny makes earthenware pots inspired by nature, with fish, birds and leaves recurring themes. A keen foodie, Penny first love is creating pottery for cooking and dining such as mugs, jugs, bowls and plates. Penny's pottery is available to buy from her shop, just below her studio. Penny also runs taster potter sessions.
RELATED ARTICLES
Town Guide: Ashburton
Ashburton has an appealing mix of antiques shops, delis and cafes. We round up the best things to do.
Ashburton is an appealing blend of traditional, edge-of-the-moor town and bordering-on-chic retreat. Elegant terraces and granite cottages line its winding streets, and you can shop for everything from hiking rucksacks to upcycled antiques. It's an all-round pleasant place, and a good base for the southern area of Dartmoor.
THE BEST PLACES TO VISIT IN ASHBURTON
CAFES, PUBS AND RESTAURANTS
Moorish
BOOK A BREAK TO ASHBURTON
On West Street, there's Moorish, a restaurant producing dishes that are, well, Moorish and more-ish, while on North Street there's the Agaric which has been in the Good Food Guide for a decade. A nearby deli displays 50 local artisan cheeses and 12 salamis. I could go on, but you get the point – there may be only 3,500 residents but this town is Foodie Central.
Old Library
Chefs Joe and Amy describe themselves as 'locally grown' and this idea shines through in their simple but sophisticated food that showcases prime Devon produce.
Taylor’s Cafe
Wander inside Tea at Taylor’s and you’ll be greeted by a warm interior, antique furnished decor and the smell of freshly baked scones (gluten-free options are also available). There’s also a great cake, sandwiches and soup selection.
FOOD & DRINK SHOPS
The Fish Deli
The Fish Deli sells River Teign mussels, diver-caught scallops and haddock which is "not like the rubbish up north", according to the sign. There are other fruit and veg stores, a sandwich shop and upmarket takeaways, while the most recent arrival is Moor Chocolat! selling coconut ice and Venezuelan and Ghanaian cacao.
Ashburton Deli
Ashburton Deli sells 30 local artisan cheeses, some of which are produced by producer with his very own cave for ageing, air-dried ham from Ottery St Mary in Devon, pate from Exmoor, delicious cakes from Exeter, award winning salamis from Delabole in Cornwall, locally smoked fish and meat, tea picked in Cornwall, Cornish goat’s milk chocolates, preserves from Ashburton-based Wild Garden Preserves and Hog’s Bottom Garden Delights in Tavistock, locally-made meringues, macaroons and Laydilay eggs.
Moor Chocolate
Moor Chocolate is for lovers of all things sweet. Situated halfway up the high street, you’ll find a candy coloured building. Inside, all types of candy, chocolate, and other confectionery. Here, you’ll find a sweet tooth’s dream spread of sugary snacks.
Ella’s Artisan Bakers
You’ll need an early start to catch Ella’s delicious range of breads and cakes before they sell out.
THINGS TO DO IN ASHBURTON
Ashburton Antiques Trail
There are no less than 12 antiques shops crammed in Ashburton’s town centre, and the Ashburton Antiques Trail has a special map to guide you round them. There’s everything from Victoriana to fine-art. Our favourite is Alchemy Antiques, for its carefully curated selection of gorgeous furniture and homewares.
Ashburton Cookery School
Long-established cookery school, offering more than 40 courses in everything from breadmaking to teen cuisine, via fish filleting and food photography. Queen of all she surveys here is Stella West Harling, whose Ashburton Cookery School has taught 20,000 amateur and professional chefs during the past 17 years, including five who reached the televised stages of the BBC's 2009 Masterchef series.
Town Guide: Chagford
Foodie Chagford is a vibrant village with great shops and cafes. Here’s our guide to the best things to do.
One of the prettiest of the Dartmoor villages, Chagford's stone-walled cottages, whitewashed buildings and thatched roofs are set around a quintessential village square. It's a handsome, vibrant little village, with some great places to sleep and eat, and there are views over the tors practically everywhere you look.
CHAGFORD CAFES
The Birdcage, Chagford
The pretty little Bird Cage cafe on Chagford’s main square serves delicious lunches, as well as great breakfasts and brunches, made with fresh, local ingredients.
The Old Forge
Run by a fun, friendly husband-and-wife team, this small cafe makes a super spot for a light bite in Chagford, from spanish omelette and chicken-and-halloumi souvlaki to mini 'pizzaninis' and yummy homemade soups.
Whiddons Tea Room
In this old-world tearoom-bistro, traditional tastes rule, with menus full of venison, quail, duck and slow-cooked beef shin. It's all neatly and creatively done and the flavours are intense.
Folklore
East London meets Chagford. Exquisite salads.
Beachwood Bakery
California expat Julia Cotts started this jewel of a bakery with the help of funding from the local community. Try her renowned ‘Village Loaf’, an organic sourdough. Other favourites include spiced vegetable samosas, pastries, cakes, cinnamon buns, focaccias and freshly made soups. > Beachwood Bakery
CHAGFORD PUBS
Chagford Inn, Chagford
Under Head Chef, Russell Hamby, The Chagford Inn produces as much in-house as possible – ranging from baking their own bread to curing our own bacon, coppa, bresaola, salt beef, pastrami, fish and our version of Serrano ham. Their Dexter beef travels about half a mile from local farmer Richard ‘Elmo’ Ellis’s farm and is butchered and prepared totally in-house. Cuts and dishes change regularly … from rib eye steak through confit Dexter flank to roasted ox liver - no part of the animal is wasted. They don’t use stock cubes or anything ready prepared, and bones are roasted every morning to produce rich and delicious stocks. Menus change daily. At the time of writing, dishes included seared scallops with squid ink risotto, confit pork belly with puy lentil cassoulet and celeriac remoulade and, for dessert, plum and ginger crumble with ice cream or clotted cream. On Sunday lunchtime, they offer a traditional roast – always beef, occasionally, another roast meat – as well as a range of other dishes including vegetarian options. Dogs are welcome.
The Three Crowns
this part-thatched coaching inn in the pretty stannary town of Chagford dates back to the 15th century. Original fireplaces and granite walls are matched well with contemporary style; muddy boots (or paws) are welcome despite plush carpets. Vibrant dishes showcase ingredients that have been caught, reared or grown in the West Country, with fish from Newlyn, meat from Crediton, eggs from Chagford and vegetables from Topsham. There’s more fish on the à la carte menu than might be expected on Dartmoor, but that’s no bad thing. Starters include Cornish mackerel with heritage tomatoes and home-smoked squab pigeon. Seasonal mains include pan-roasted gurnard, beef fillet and spring lamb. The pub classics menu offers beer-battered market fish, butcher’s choice steak and bangers and mash. Sit by the inglenook fireplace to choose a tipple from Devon ales, ciders, wines, 21 gins and Luscombe and Frobisher’s soft drinks. Devon cream teas are available daily 12-5pm.
CHAGFORD SHOPS
Beachwood Bakery
California expat Julia Cotts started this jewel of a bakery with the help of funding from the local community. Try her renowned ‘Village Loaf’, an organic sourdough. Other favourites include spiced vegetable samosas, pastries, cakes, cinnamon buns, focaccias and freshly made soups. > Beachwood Bakery
Blacks Delicatessan
Walk into Blacks for one thing and you're likely to leave with half a dozen more. Tempting breads, cheeses and olives are stacked high, along with pies, pasties, and gourmet homemade quiches including leek and Stilton or spicy pepper with chorizo.
> More fabulous places to go food shopping in Devon
Jaded Palates
Not your ordinary wine shop: Ian Renwick, owner of Jaded Palates Wines, spent three years making wine in France, and now brings this knowledge and experience as he presents a fantastic range of wines and spirits... all with a story behind them.
Artisan
Artisan is a gallery selling the work of over 40 local artisans including unique jewellery, pottery, turned wood, forged iron feltwork, original artwork, prints and photographs.
Rue des Fontenelles
Founded in France, Rue des Fontenelles specialises in French antiques and interiors, stocking French and European antique art, decorative objects, accessories and ceramics in their gorgeous shop just off Chagford Square.
Bowdens
Bowdens is an Aladdin’s Cave of a shop, that seems to cram everything you’ll ever need into three floors. Come here for outdoor gear, including walking boots, maps and compasses.
BEST THINGS TO DO IN CHAGFORD
Walk along the River Teign
This walks leads to one of Dartmoor’s most famous walks, along the breathtaking River Teign. Park at Chagford Swimming Pool and pick up the footpath that traces the river, and makes a detour right up to the imposing bulk of Castle Drogo – the last castle to be built in England.
Chagford Swimming Pool
Just a ten-minute drive from North Bovey, Chagford Pool can't be far from heaven. Swallows nest in the changing rooms and dive-bomb the swimmers, and with the sound of the river Teign running past stepping stones, it's as relaxed as a swimming pool gets. It’s river fed, so is chilly.
Visit an artisan upholsterer
Follow the sounds of chamber music that waft around the backstreets of Chagford and you'll be led to the Georgian coachhouse where Stuart devotes himself to upholstering antique and modern furniture the traditional way. His is a wonderfully riotous workshop, where walls are hung with half-broken chairs, furniture springs and enormous rolls of webbing, and floors are scattered with off-cuts of damasks and fine silks, piles of lambswool and hessian bags overflowing with horse hair and shredded coconut husks. He welcomes drop-ins.
Make your own key fob
Leather worker Martin offers two-hour workshops from his shop, Artisan, on the high street. He has a hands-on approach to his craft, often visiting tanneries to select the perfect hides. He is pictured here sampling skins at J&FJ Baker & Co, the UK’s last remaining oak-bark tannery, in Colyton, East Devon. On Martin's workshop, you will learn basic leather skills and have the chance to produce your own bookmark or key fob. If you're fast, you might also get to make a leather bookcover.
Make your own silver ring
Working from a cosy studio in the centre of the ancient stannary town of Chagford, Miriam makes silver jewellery using designs inspired by the moors and wildlife that surrounds her. You can design your own silver ring with her with during a two-hour introductory session into silversmithing. You'll learn how to cut, file, solder, sand and polish your own ring, and finish it with different textures and patinas. Miriam is one of the few people in the UK to offer lovebirds the chance to design and make their own wedding rings. You can visit her shop by appointment. Visit Silver and Moor for information.
RELATED ARTICLES
Devon's Best Interiors Shops
Antiques, pottery, baskets, rugs, art - Devon’s homeware shops are second to none. Here are our favourites.
Antiques, rustic baskets, pottery and rugs - Devon’s homeware shops are some of the most interesting in the UK. Here are our favourites.
Nkuku, Totnes
Baskets from Nkuku, Totnes
Signposted by a fashionably rusting modernist sign, Nkuku, on the outskirts of Totnes, is a rustic-chic repository of artisan creations from India, Vietnam and Africa – all handpicked by husband-and-wife team Alex and Alistair Cooke. Think pyramid terrariums created by a latch maker in Uttar Pradesh, hand-loomed Rajasthani block-print jute rugs, ceramics, pretty Mawia bead bracelets made in West Bengal, and Kadira leather journals crafted in Delhi. They have a lovely cafe.
The Shops At Dartington, Totnes
Artistic education centre Dartington Hall also houses an unusual shopping experience – you’ll find everything here, including natural beauty products including colourful kitchenware. At the lovely Re-Store shop, volunteer artists restore and upcycle old materials into covetable homewares. And the Tanner Bates Leather School produces hand-stitched and high quality leather goods, from luggage tags to messenger bags.
Fountain Antiques, Honiton
The small market town of Honiton has no less than 85 antiques shops, selling everything from carriage clocks to leather-bound books. Most have stalls at Fountain Antiques, on the High Street, with a handful selling the lace for which Honiton was once famed. Honiton Fine Arts sells gorgeous mid-century English oil paintings, while Strummer Pink, sells colourful artwork, mirrors, lighting, rugs and blankets made by local artisans. Take a breather at rustic café Toast.
Powdermills Pottery, Dartmoor
As the name suggests, Powdermills was once a gunpowder grinding mill, the gunpowder being used to blast rocks in the local tin mines. Located near Two Bridge, the granite buildings of the former mill now house a rustic pottery and traditional tea shop.
Quay Antiques, Topsham
The estuary-side town of Topsham is a delight: its narrow lanes wind towards the harbour, which is ringed with restaurants, pubs and antique shops. Other attractions include an appealing run of 18th-century Dutch-style gabled houses, a long riverside strand, huge antiques market on the quayside. Many shops close on Sundays.
Ashburton Antiques, Ashburton
Dubbed the gateway to the moor, Ashburton is an elegant town whose fortunes were founded on cloth and mining. It is one of Dartmoor’s four stannary towns, where tin was bought to be taxed – and its fine slate-hung frontages house a well-to-do selection of antique shops.
Devon Guild of Craftsmen
The Devon Guild is the largest contemporary crafts centre in the South West, displaying beautiful pieces in an idyllic riverside setting, this former millhouse on a river in Bovey Tracey stocks a lovely range of products made by local artisans, including pottery, wrought iron pieces, jewellery and leatherwork. There are art and craft exhibitions, housed in airy white-walled studios, and upstairs is a rustic café, which sells a delicious salads and homemade cakes.
RELATED ARTICLES
Devon's Best Towns For Shopping
Farm shops, antiques shops, homewares shops and art galleries - here’s our guide to the best places to shop in Devon.
Farm shops, antiques shops, home shops and craft stores - here’s our guide to the best places to shop in Devon.
Pottery
Chagford
This pretty stannary town is crammed with cafes, tea rooms, farm shops and delis. Check out wood-panelled Blacks for great light lunches, local produce and cheeses, Jaded Palates for a wines, local gins and ales and the Courtyard Cafe for healthy lunches and organic produce. The town has half-day closing on Wednesday afternoons.
Ashburton
Antiques in Ashburton
Dubbed the gateway to the moor, Ashburton is an elegant town whose fortunes were founded on cloth and mining. It is one of Dartmoor’s four stannary towns, where tin was bought to be taxed – and its fine slate-hung frontages house a well-to-do selection of antique shops, delis, cafes and restaurants. Most notable of the latter is the Fish Deli and Ashburton Deli.
Devon Guild of Craftsmen
The Devon Guild is the largest contemporary crafts centre in the South West, displaying beautiful pieces in an idyllic riverside setting, this former millhouse on a river in Bovey Tracey stocks a lovely range of products made by local artisans, including pottery, wrought iron pieces, jewellery and leatherwork. There are art and craft exhibitions, housed in airy white-walled studios, and upstairs is a rustic café, which sells a delicious salads and homemade cakes. There’s also variety of workshops on offer that might persuade you to try your hand at knitting, calligraphy, printmaking or weaving.
Tavistock
The ancient town of Tavistock has one of the oldest markets in existence. Tavistock Pannier Market was granted a Royal Charter in 1105, and has been operating here without a break ever since. It sells antiques and crafts with themed markets on a Saturday, and is in a wonderful castellated Victorian building. Just outside the market is Country Cheeses, a Devon shop that sells hundreds of British cheeses, mostly sourced from the West Country. Try crumbly Totnes special Ticklemore Goat, the shop’s own Little Stinky, or Devon sage.
Totnes
Totnes
Hippyish Totnes is a place where the independent spirit is cherished – they even have their own currency, the Totnes pound. This is the place to shop for wholefoods, eco and organic stores. Social Fabric on the High Street sells bright yarns and fabrics and also run a variety of craft workshops, from lampshade-making to felting. Aromatika sells organic and natural skincare products, while Arcturus Books stock mind, body and spirit titles. The Seeds2Bakery uses only local organic stone ground flour, while the Wild Fig Deli specialises in gluten-free and vegetarian food. Drift Records stock new music, with a policy that ranges from left field minimal tech house to home-recorded roots music from the Appalachian Mountains. Riverford Organic farm shop sells wonderful local cheeses. rtistic education centre Dartington Hall also houses an unusual shopping experience – you’ll find everything here, including natural beauty products, colourful kitchenware and a classy food shop, where 80% of the produce stocked is made, reared or grown in the West Country. At the lovely Re-Store shop, volunteer artists restore and upcycle old materials into covetable homewares. And the Tanner Bates Leather School produces hand-stitched and high quality leather goods, from luggage tags to messenger bags.
Topsham
The estuary-side town of Topsham is a delight: its narrow lanes wind towards the harbour, which is ringed with restaurants, pubs and antique shops. Other attractions include an appealing run of 18th-century Dutch-style gabled houses, a long riverside strand, huge antiques market on the quayside. Many shops close on Sundays.
Exeter
Pedestrianised Princesshay centre is the place to go for chain stores, with independent shops centred around the Castle Quarter. Silver Lion on Gandy Street, sells hand-made and Fairtrade jewellery from around the world, while Crede sells designer fashion. Fore Street is at the heart of the hip and historic West Quarter, where you can shop for vintage clothing and electric guitars amongst the half-timbered buildings. The Real McCoy in McCoy’s Arcade has sells one-off pre-loved garments including ball gowns and retro leather, while No Guts No Glory sells artist-designed organic T-shirts, art magazines, cards and prints. Exeter is also home to the Original Surfboard Company, which produces beautiful wooden boards, as well as funky board bags.
Honiton
The small market town of Honiton has no less than 85 antiques shops, selling everything from carriage clocks to leather-bound books. Most have stalls at Fountain Antiques, on the High Street, with a handful selling the lace for which Honiton was once famed. Honiton Fine Arts sells gorgeous mid-century English oil paintings, while Strummer Pink, sells colourful artwork, mirrors, lighting, rugs and blankets made by local artisans. Take a breather at rustic café Toast.
RELATED ARTICLES
A Foodie's Guide to Devon
Devon’s food and drinks shops have an independent streak. Here’s pick of the best places to shop for local artisanal produce in Devon.
Devon’s food and drink shops have an independent streak. Here are the best places shop for artisanal Devon produce.
ONE-STOP SHOPS
Dart’s Farm, Topsham
Described as ‘Selfridges’ food hall in the middle of a farm’, Darts Farm has done so much to promote regional produce it's something of a legend in the South-West. Our favourite shop is the Fish Shed - a restaurant, fishmonger and take-out place rolled into one: the fish are caught that day.
DEVON BUTCHERS
Cox and Laflin, Bovey Tracey
Cox and Laflin are a specialist butchers who only use local farmers from Dartmoor, which gives full traceability and gorgeous meat.
Eversfield Organic, Tavistock
Organic Aberdeen Angus and Kent half-breeds reared naturally on the estate and matured for up to three weeks. As well as organic beef and organic pork, Eversfield produces an award-winning streaky bacon which it claims makes the best breakfast butty in the south-west. Now selling at Tavistock and Holesworthy farmers' markets, and at their farm shop in Tavistock (see ‘Farm Shops’, below)
Michael Howard’s, Moretonhampstead
This family-run butchers sells lamb from Sanduct in nearby Lustleigh, beef from Dexter or Belted Galaways, speciality sausages, fish landed in Brixham and meat cuts that you will not be able to find in supermarkets. The delicatessen selection includes Otter Vale chutneys, Midfields Granola, Underdown butter, Sharpham cheeses, Salcombe Dairy ice-cream and Creedy Carver chicken.
DEVON FISHMONGERS
Gibson’s Fish Van, Moretonhampstead and Chagford
A traditional high-quality fishmonger that buys in fresh fish caught by in-shore day boats at the Brixham auction every morning. The beauty of this system is you never know what you're going to get - it's a kind of diverse fish lottery that might feature anything from red mullet, turbot, brill and red gurnard to scallops, lemon sole and seabass. The Exeter shop also supplies locally oak-smoked and dye-free salmon, mackerel and haddock and runs free weekly deliveries to Moretonhampstead (outside the chemist) from 9.30-11.30am, Chagford from 12.00-1.30pm then Drewsteignton 2pm-3pm. On Fridays, it is in Chagford 9.30am-12.30pm then Lustleigh between 12.45-1.30pm. Ask nicely and you might get 10% off.
Fish Deli, Ashburton
The Fish Deli on the right sells River Teign mussels, diver-caught scallops and haddock which is "not like the rubbish up north", according to the sign. There are other fruit and veg stores, a sandwich shop and upmarket takeaways, while the most recent arrival is Moor Chocolat! selling coconut ice and Venezuelan and Ghanaian cacao.
DEVON FRUIT, VEGETABLE & FARM SHOPS
Wholefoods, Chagford
Riverford Farm’s organic fruit and veg boxes have become ubiquitous but here you can buy produce direct from the Riverford Farm Shop.
Ullacombe Farm Shop, Haytor
Ullacombe Farm Shop, on the way to Haytor, sells plenty of locally made produce, from chilli chocolate to cheeses. There’s also a teashop selling superb farmhouse cakes.
Eversfield Organic, Tavistock
Devon giants of the online organic food box trade Eversfield Organic, have opened their first bricks and mortar business in Tavistock. Inside the new store, customers can stock up on all things organic, including meat from the butchers' country, Baker Tom's breads, including sourdough and spelt loaves; Owen's coffee from Ivybridge plus fresh fish, fruit, veg and more.
Riverford Farm Shop, Totnes
Riverford Farm’s organic fruit and veg boxes have become ubiquitous but here you can buy produce direct from the Riverford Farm Shop on Totnes’ high street. Award-winning organic pies make great takeaway dinners to heat up at home – try a traditional beef pasty, homity pie or ham and leek tarts, all handmade in the farm shop kitchen. Add butternut squash hummus with harissa, mixed olives and cured meats to the spread. Or, in season, pick up bergamot lemons, blood oranges and Seville oranges along with jam jars to make your own marmalade.
Forest Fungi, Dawlish
The canteen at Forest Fungi is a contemporary affair and also pumps out the freshest of ingredients from just outside the door. The ingredients are seasonal, and meals are often filled with mushrooms which have been grown on the farm. The breakfast menu has everything you can ever expect, but be sure to order a coffee too – it is exceptional.
DEVON DELICATESSANS
Blacks, Chagford
Blacks wood-panelled shelves and walls are piled high with Devon produce, including Sharpham cheese and wines, Roly’s fudge, Teonies Cookies, Midfields granola, Dartmouth smoked salmon, Luscombe fruit juices and Dartmoor ales.
The Real Food Store, Totnes
A novel community project, Real Food is owned by 300 local shareholders. Collectively, they wanted to create a showcase for Devonian produce in Exeter city centre. The shop fulfils that brief, and how. Its shelves are stacked with everything from clotted cream fudge and Ashridge organic cider to handmade pork pies by Chunk of Devon and locally smoked duck. Upstairs, a colourful, airy utilitarian cafe continues the theme across simple breakfast dishes, gourmet sandwiches and specials, such as smoked trout and salmon fishcakes with salad and sweet chilli dipping sauce (£6.45). The star of the Real Food show is on-site artisan bakery Emma's Bread, whose creations are available to eat in or take away. Its lightly cheesy spelt scones are nice, but Emma Parkin's savoury flapjacks are unmissable. A moreish mix of mushrooms, for umami depth, carrots, onions, cheese, oats and sesame seeds, they are grand and, for £1.95 (takeaway), you get a substantial slice.
DEVON WINE MERCHANTS AND CRAFT ALE HOUSES
Jaded Palates, Chagford
Jaded Palates is contemporary wine merchants stocking local wines, spirits and ales, with a strong leaning towards Devon-made drinks.
The Totnes Brewing Co, Totnes
The Totnes Brewing Co is situated at the bottom of Totnes Castle. As well as brewing their own craft beers right in the bar on a weekly basis they also stock a huge range of guest craft ales & ciders - local and international. If you love craft beer this is a must with "probably" the largest selection of beers and ciders in the area (usually over 100). The beer garden is a perfect spot from which to admire the Castle and the bar is warm and cosy at night - with an open fire on cold days. Food platters to go with beer are served during the holiday season and people are welcome to bring their own food when the kitchen is closed - they are dog friendly and have free wifi. Children welcome during the day and early evening.
Magdalen Road, Exeter
Magdalen Road is Exeter's foodie enclave. Along one short stretch of tarmac, you will find a fishmonger (remember them?), wine shop, the butchery outlet for award-winning Devon farm Piper's, the old school Village Bakery, as well as Bon Goût (45 Magdalen Road, 01392 435521, bongoutdeli.co.uk) and Belgreen (25 Magdalen Road, 01392 271190, belgreen.co.uk), a couple of interesting budget eating options.
STORE CUPBOARD BASICS
Earth Food Love, Totnes
The Eckersley’s shop, Earth Food Love, which came to life in March 2017, claims to be the first zero-waste shop in the country. Inside, almost every inch of the modestly sized shop is crammed with a dispenser of some sort, for everything from pulses, grains and dried fruit to detergents and bamboo toothbrushes – all free of plastic and pesticides. You’d be forgiven for thinking they had little space left, but they’re planning more shelves and constantly bringing in new stock – as long as the supplying company is ethical, of course. They’re ahead of the game on the anti-plastic revolution, but since the government recently put the issue of plastic pollution at the heart of its 25-year plan, it’s become front-page news with an increasing amount of well-deserved attention. They've become the pin-ups for others doing the same, from the Bulk Market in east London to other people around the country wanting to follow suit. The idea is you take your own container – whether it’s a Tupperware, tin can or reusable bag (they’ve even had someone using pillowcases), fill up with food, weigh and pay. There’s not a plastic bag in sight, nor anything wrapped in the shiny stuff. For them, it’s not about making a profit; it’s about consuming food and everyday products in a way that doesn’t cost the earth. It has been an undeniable success with locals and they’ve got plenty of loyal customers, as well as tourists wanting to see what’s happening.
Zero, Moretonhampstead
Similar to Earth Food Love, only in our very own Moretonhampstead!
SWEETS & DESSERTS
Roly’s Fudge, Totnes
Roly’s Fudge has been making crumbly artisan fudge for nearly three decades so they know what they’re doing when it comes to the sweet stuff. Huge copper pans are used to make Roly’s favourite flavours – lashings of Devon butter goes in to traditional vanilla clotted cream, rum ‘n’ raisin is spiked with rich, dark rum for a luxurious treat, and lemon meringue makes a tangy surprise. Buy a slab to snack on, or pretty bags of fudge cubes as presents. They also have stores in Exeter, Torquay and Dartmouth.
DEVON CHEESEMONGERS
The Cheese Shed, Bovey Tracey
Cheeses from the West Country - including Menallack and Devon Oke plus well-loved cheddars by Keen's, Montgomery's and Westcombe. There's Harbourne Blue, an unusual and delicious 'blue goat', Vulscombe and White Nancy - both goats' cheeses. Elmhirst and Nanterrow make up the soft, fresher cheeses.
Country Cheeses, Tavistock
Just outside the market is Country Cheeses, a Devon shop that sells hundreds of British cheeses, mostly sourced from the West Country. Try crumbly Totnes special Ticklemore Goat, the shop’s own Little Stinky, or Devon sage.
RELATED ARTICLES
Day Trip: Totnes
A castle, stunning vineyard and some of Devon’s best shopping, Totnes is an all-round crowd-pleaser. Here’s a selection of our favourite things to do.
THINGS TO DO IN TOTNES
A Norman castle, stunning vineyard and some of Devon’s best shopping, Totnes is an all-round crowd-pleaser. Here’s a selection of our favourite things to do on a day out in Totnes.
Totnes Castle
SIGHTSEEING
Totnes Castle
High on a hilltop above town, Totnes Castle is among the best-preserved examples of a Norman 'motte and bailey' castle (a round keep sitting on a raised earthwork). The views over Totnes's rooftops and the South Hams beyond are captivating, but the interior is largely empty. Look out for the medieval toilet (but don't use it).
Totnes Fashion & Textiles Museum
Beautifully displayed 18th- to 20th-century garments, Totnes Fashion Museum is set in one of Totnes' finest Tudor merchant's houses.
Dartington Estate
Henry VIII gave this pastoral 324-hectare estate to two of his wives (Catherines Howard and Parr). For many years Dartington Estate was home to the town's art college; now the 14th-century manor house hosts events, including renowned classical-music and literature festivals. There's also an art-house cinema. The grounds are also worth exploring. It's about 2 miles northwest of Totnes. Dartington's 14th-century manor house edges a grassy space reminiscent of an Oxbridge quadrangle. In the landscaped gardens impressive terraced banks frame an area known as the Tiltyard, while flower-filled borders lead down to glades, meadows and thatched cottages. Amid the tiny paths and secret benches you can hunt out Henry Moore's carved stone sculpture Memorial Figure, the swirling bobbles of Peter Randall Page's Jacob's Pillow and the bronze Donkey by Willi Soukop. The Japanese Garden, complete with raked gravel and cedar-wood shelter, is beside the ruined church.
Sharpham Vineyard
Three miles south of Totnes off the A381, Sharpham Vineyard is chiefly known for its crisp, sparkling white wines, as well as its delicious cheeses. Perched above the meandering River Dart, it's become one of the UK's best-known winemakers. You can explore the vine-covered slopes solo, followed by a wine and/or cheese tasting in the shop, or plump for the full guided tour. After a tour of the vines, sit down for delicious food from a daily-changing blackboard menu at the rustic bistro of Sharpham Wine & Cheese. The choices revolve around local treats, so expect smoked fish, crab salad and Lyme Bay scallops, as well as the estate's own wines and cheeses. It's all delicious. Book ahead. Opens longer hours in summer.
Berry Pomeroy Castle
Two miles east of Totnes, this ruined castle was originally built by the feudal Pomeroys in the 15th century. Within the walls is a second stronghold, a Tudor mansion constructed by Edward Seymour, the 1st Duke of Somerset. Unfortunately, the Seymour clan's fortunes turned for the worse after the English Civil war, and by 1700 Berry Pomeroy was nothing more than a ruin – and has remained so ever since. It's notorious for ghostly goings-on.
SHOPPING
Totnes High Street
Hippyish Totnes is a place where the independent spirit is cherished – they even have their own currency, the Totnes pound. This is the place to shop for wholefoods, eco and organic stores. Aromatika sells organic and natural skincare products made in Devon, while Arcturus Books stock mind, body and spirit titles. The Seeds2Bakery uses only local organic stone ground flour, while the Wild Fig Deli specialises in gluten-free and vegetarian food. Drift Records stock new music, with a policy that ranges from left field minimal tech house to home-recorded roots music from the Appalachian Mountains. Me and East and Busby and Fox both sell gorgeous homewares.
Earth Food Love
Earth Food Love, which opened on Totnes High Street in March 2017, deserves a special mention for being the first zero-waste shop in the UK. Inside, almost every inch of the modestly sized shop is crammed with a dispenser of some sort, for everything from pulses, grains and dried fruit to detergents and bamboo toothbrushes – all organic and free of plastic and pesticides. They’re ahead of the game on the anti-plastic revolution and have become the pin-ups for others doing the same, from the Bulk Market in east London to other people around the country wanting to follow suit. The idea is you take your own container – whether it’s a Tupperware, tin can or reusable bag (they’ve even had someone using pillowcases), fill up with food, weigh and pay. There’s not a plastic bag in sight, nor anything wrapped in the shiny stuff. For them, it’s not about making a profit; it’s about consuming food and everyday products in a way that doesn’t cost the earth.
The Shops At Dartington
Artistic education centre Dartington Hall also houses an unusual shopping experience – you’ll find everything here, including natural beauty products, colourful kitchenware and a classy food shop, where 80% of the produce stocked is made, reared or grown in the West Country. At the lovely Re-Store shop, volunteer artists restore and upcycle old materials into covetable homewares. And the Tanner Bates Leather School produces hand-stitched and high quality leather goods, from luggage tags to messenger bags.
Nkuku
Signposted by a fashionably rusting modernist sign, Nkuku, on the outskirts of Totnes, is a rustic-chic repository of artisan creations from India, Vietnam and Africa – all handpicked by husband-and-wife team Alex and Alistair Cooke. Think pyramid terrariums created by a latch maker in Uttar Pradesh, hand-loomed Rajasthani block-print jute rugs, ceramics, pretty Mawia bead bracelets made in West Bengal, and Kadira leather journals crafted in Delhi. They have a lovely cafe.
Conker
A special shout out goes to Totnes institution Conker, who will knock you up a pair of distinctive, bespoke brogues for a surprisingly decent price.
EATING AND DRINKING
The Almond Thief, Dartington
The sourdough bread at craft bakery The Almond Thief is legendary, but they’ve also just branched out into a cafe business, serving a cracking artisan breakfast. The menu changes weekly, but look out for Bob’s dynamic poached eggs from neighbouring Huxham’s Cross Farm, served on sourdough with Rust Pig 24-month cured ham and asparagus. Wash it down with a cup of Crankhouse coffee.
The Curator
This Italian cafe has a cult-like following with Devon coffee aficionados and is lauded for its espresso. The brunch menu runs all day. Go for poached eggs served with either crispy prosciutto, house-made sausage or roasted peppers and avocado. Another favourite at The Curator is the Italian BLT, served on freshly-made focaccia.
Riverford Field Kitchen
This ecofriendly, organic, plough-to-plate farm is where everyone wants to eat when they visit Totnes. Riverford Field Kitchen began as a food-box scheme, and has now branched out into a delightful barn bistro, where diners sit communally at long wooden tables and share dishes of the day. Rustic flavours rule: expect delicious salads, roast meats and imaginative veggie options. Bookings required.
Sharpham Wine and Cheese
After a tour of the vines, sit down for delicious food from a daily-changing blackboard menu at the rustic bistro of Sharpham Wine & Cheese. The choices revolve around local treats, so expect smoked fish, crab salad and Lyme Bay scallops, as well as the estate's own wines and cheeses. It's all delicious. Book ahead. Opens longer hours in summer.
Mangetout
There’s breakfast, and then there is breakfast from Mangetout. Take up a seat out the front to watch Totnes wander by, take over the small interior, or better yet, find a seat in shaded courtyard out back. Their smoothies are incredible, as is the smashed avocado on sourdough, with a poached egg on top and a side of bacon.
New Lion Brewery
Craft beer with community spirit: this microbrewery is locally owned and run by Totnes residents, with profits helping to support the town's economy. The three core beers are the classic Mane Event bitter, hoppy Pandit IPA and silky Totnes Stout. The shop is open every day, but the brewery bar is only open on Friday and Saturday evenings.
The Hairy Barista
Aeropress, cold-brew, V60, flat white or just plain-old espresso, the aptly named Hairy Barista (aka Roe Yekutiel) will oblige – his little shop has become the town's go-to place for speciality coffee. There are cakes and pastries on offer too, but the space is a little cramped inside (and mind the step on the way in!).
The Totnes Brewing Co
The Totnes Brewing Co is situated at the bottom of Totnes Castle. As well as brewing their own craft beers right in the bar on a weekly basis they also stock a huge range of guest craft ales & ciders - local and international. If you love craft beer this is a must with "probably" the largest selection of beers and ciders in the area (usually over 100). The beer garden is a perfect spot from which to admire the Castle and the bar is warm and cosy at night - with an open fire on cold days. Food platters to go with beer are served during the holiday season and people are welcome to bring their own food when the kitchen is closed - they are dog friendly and have free wifi. Children welcome during the day and early evening.
Nkuku Cafe
From the company’s base in an uber-cool barn conversion, Nkuku sells its range of ethical, handmade homewares online. What many customers don’t realize as they’re buying its beautiful ceramic cereal bowls or wooden serving platters is that Nkuku also has a shop and café at its Devon HQ. A calming, earthy, stripped-back space, it’s the perfect setting for artisan, wood-roasted coffee from the nearby Curator Café, homemade cakes and brownies and deli boards laid with locally sourced cheeses and cured meats. Its sunny, south-facing courtyard is a great spot to while away an afternoon.
RELATED ARTICLES
Day Trip: Exeter
A fine Norman cathedral, fabulous street food market and the West Country’s best farm shop makes Exeter a colourful day trip.
A fine Norman cathedral, pretty Georgian streets, a fabulous street food market and the West Country’s best farm shop makes Exeter an interesting day trip. Here’s our pick of the best things to do in and around Exeter.
Exeter Cathedral
Exeter Cathedral
Magnificent in warm, honey-coloured stone, Exeter's cathedral is one of Devon’s most impressive ecclesiastical sights. Dating largely from the 12th and 13th centuries, the west front is framed by extraordinary medieval statuary, while inside the ceiling soars upwards to the longest span of unbroken Gothic vaulting in the world, dotted with ornate ceiling bosses in gilt and vibrant colours.
RAMM
A fixture on the city's cultural scene since Victorian times, this hulking red-brick museum recently received a £24 million revamp. It's a treasure trove of rambling rooms, filled with glass cases of curiosities and archaeological finds – from samurai armour, African masks and Egyptian mummies in the World Cultures galleries to a truly amazing echinoderm collection of starfish and sea urchins amassed by the inveterate Victorian collector Walter Percy Sladen. Exeter's own history also figures strongly.
Underground Passages
Prepare to crouch down, don a hard hat and possibly get spooked in what is the only publicly accessible system of its kind in England. These medieval vaulted passages were built to house pipes bringing fresh water to the city. Guides lead you on a scramble through the network, relating tales of ghosts, escape routes and cholera. The last tour is an hour before closing; they're popular – book ahead.
Exeter Quay
On fine sunny days the people of Exeter head to the quay. Cobbled paths lead between former warehouses that have been converted into antique shops, quirky stores, craft workshops, restaurants and pubs (popular spots for al fresco drinks and people-watching).
Take a guided tour
Our Guided Tours page has details on Exeter city tours.
Real Food Store
Boxes and bags full of field-fresh veg, racks of fragrant bread, ranks of local cheeses and piles of cured meat and fish. Some 70% of the goods in this community-run cafe-cum-store are from Devon, and the other 30% is from the wider southwest.
Visit Topsham
The estuary-side town of Topsham is a delight: its narrow lanes wind towards the harbour, which is ringed with restaurants, pubs and antique shops. Other attractions include an appealing run of 18th-century Dutch-style gabled houses, a long riverside strand and a huge antiques market on the quayside.
Drink in a traditional ale house
One of England’s last traditional ale houses, little has changed at The Bridge Inn for centuries: faded bunting from George V’s 1911 coronation still hangs in the tiny bar. This ‘museum-with-beer’ is a must for ale connoisseurs.
Exploding Bakery
Excellent news: one of Exeter's hippest little bakeries has now added half-a-dozen tables, meaning there's even more room to sample superb flat whites, macchiato and inventive cakes – the lemon, polenta and pistachio is a hit.
Stock up at a farm shop
Described as being ‘Selfridges’ food hall in the middle of a farm’, Darts Farm has done so much to promote regional produce it's something of a legend in the south-west. Come here for your shop, a three-course meal or just a takeaway. A favourite is the Fish Shed, a restaurant, fishmonger and take-out place rolled into one: the fish will have been caught that day.
See how the other half live
One of the oldest family seats in Devon, Powderham Castle, set in its own deer park, belongs to the Earl of Devon. Added to and altered repeatedly over its six hundred year history, tours take in the medieval core, neo-classical areas and Victorian kitchen.
Have lunch at the River Exe café
Our favourite alternative-eats venue, at least on a sunny day, is the River Exe Café a floating shed-cum-pontoon moored off Exmouth. Serving seafood dropped off by passing fishing boats, the sea-to-plate interval can be as little as five minutes. Get there on the new Topsham to Exmouth cycle path, then catch a water taxi to the café. Closed winter. Booking essential.
Go grazing on Magdalen Road
Magdalen Road is Exeter's foodie enclave. Along one short stretch of tarmac, you will find a fishmonger (remember them?), wine shop, the butchery outlet for award-winning Devon farm Piper's, the old school Village Bakery, as well as Bon Goût (45 Magdalen Road, 01392 435521, bongoutdeli.co.uk) and Belgreen (25 Magdalen Road, 01392 271190, belgreen.co.uk), a couple of interesting budget eating options.
RELATED ARTICLES