Devon's Perfect Pubs

Gastro pubs, traditional pubs, pubs with walks, pubs with gardens - here’s our guide to Devon’s best pubs.

The Ring of Bells, North Bovey

1. Ring of Bells, North Bovey

Our friendly village pub, the Ring of Bells, is a traditional thatched 13th century longhouse, complete with oak beams, wonky walls and log-burning stoves. The food is delicious, there's a great wine list and ales are poured straight from the barrel.

2. The Horse, Moretonhampstead

Heralded as a ‘genuine slice of foodie heaven’ by the Michelin guide, the Horse serves some of the best pub food in Devon, in contemporary pub setting. There's a pretty walled courtyard for dining al fresco on summer evenings. 

3. The Cleave, Lustleigh

The Cleave is a thatched Devon pub in the pretty village Lustleigh, the next village up from Moorland View. Flagstone floors, wood-beamed walls and crackling log fires make it one of the cosiest places to hole up while outside is a sunny pub garden for warm days. The food is hearty, delicious and generously portioned. For a good day trip, walk to Lustleigh from the cottage, have lunch at The Cleave and book a cab back (or walk if your legs are up to it).

4. The Pilchard Inn, Burgh Island, Bigbury on Sea

A creaky, weather-beaten smugglers inn dating from 1336 on a private island (ask about the smuggler’s escape tunnel). Getting to The Pilchard Inn is all part of the fun - it's cut off by tides from the mainland twice a day, when transport across is by sea tractor.

5. The Rugglestone, Widecombe-on-the-Moor

With flagstone floors, open fires and Dartmoor and Butcombe Best Bitter poured straight from the barrel, the Rugglestone, a Grade-II building in remote Widecombe, is Devon’s best moorland pub. The rudimentary bar is tiny, providing plenty of opportunity to join in on the old boys’ conversations. The two restaurants - one of which has an open log fire – are more spacious, and outside, over a small bridge, is a large sheltered garden with picnic tables and fabulous views. 

6. Chagford Inn, Chagford

Under Head Chef, Russell Hamby, The Chagford Inn produces as much in-house as possible – ranging from baking their own bread to curing our own bacon, coppa, bresaola, salt beef, pastrami, fish and our version of Serrano ham. Their Dexter beef travels about half a mile from local farmer Richard ‘Elmo’ Ellis’s farm and is butchered and prepared totally in-house. Cuts and dishes change regularly … from rib eye steak through confit Dexter flank to roasted ox liver - no part of the animal is wasted. They don’t use stock cubes or anything ready prepared, and bones are roasted every morning to produce rich and delicious stocks. Menus change daily. At the time of writing, dishes included seared scallops with squid ink risotto, confit pork belly with puy lentil cassoulet and celeriac remoulade and, for dessert, plum and ginger crumble with ice cream or clotted cream. On Sunday lunchtime, they offer a traditional roast – always beef, occasionally, another roast meat – as well as a range of other dishes including vegetarian options. Dogs are welcome.

7. The Dartmoor Inn, Lydford Gorge

On the fringe of Dartmoor and a stone's throw from one of the National Trust's prettiest walks in Lydford Gorge, the Dartmoor Inn is the perfect blend of olde worlde pub-meets-contemporary diner. Sunday lunch features all the traditional favourites with a modern twist. Desserts are not to be missed either, and come with a helping of seriously good clotted cream. Book ahead, but be careful not to confuse it with a different Dartmoor Inn.

8. . The Cott Inn, Dartington

First licensed in 1320, The Cott is the second oldest inn in Britain and its roof is reputed to be the longest thatched roof in England. Walkable from the River Dart and just a mile from Totnes train station, it is lively and welcoming, with a strong local following. Outside there's a spacious beer garden and patio, plus a wood-fired oven in a separate garden kitchen, which is used from March to September. It's not a rowdy Devon pub, although there are regular music nights – on Wednesdays an acoustic folk trio play and there's also a live band on Sundays. 

9. The Nobody Inn , Doddiscombsleigh

There’s a story in every nook of this 17th century inn; allegedly the central beam separating two periods of the inn – stood vertically here – is from a local church’s bell tower; you can see where ropes have worn the wood away. Blackened oak beams jut from low ceilings, antique weapons and farm tools hang from rough plaster walls, and an entire wall is given over to the Nobody Inn’s collection of 240 whiskies and spirits, while another room houses the 250-strong wine collection.

10. The Millbrook, South Pool

Probably the only place in Devon where pigs’ trotter patties and escargots appear on the same menu, the Millbrook is a cosy pub where old-school Devon meets French auberge. On a babbling brook and close to a tranquil creek, it’s accessible by boat from Salcombe so, in summer, yachtie crowds come and go with the tides. There’s live gypsy Jazz every Sunday and fish barbecues in the summer. 

11. The Pigs’s Nose, East Prawle

This whitewashed smuggler’s inn is on one of Devon’s beautiful stretches of coastal path, at Prawle Point. Run by a delightfully eccentric music manager, The Pig’s Nose has played host to The Animals, The Yardbirds, the Boomtown Rats and Curiosity Killed the Cat, and still stages regular acts. The knitting corner is for customers who prefer a quieter pint. 

12. The Bridge Inn, Topsham

One of England’s last traditional ale houses, little has changed at The Bridge Inn for centuries: faded bunting from George V’s 1911 coronation still hangs in the tiny bar. This ‘museum-with-beer’ is a must for ale connoisseurs. 

14. The Ship Inn, Noss Mayo

The sun terrace of this two-storey inn on the banks of the Yealm estuary is our favourite Devon pub for a waterside tipple. Inside, there’s a panelled library, English-oak floors, log fires, old furniture and interesting nautical memorabilia, including searchlights, torpedoes and an impressive ship’s bell which is used for chiming last orders. The cellar stocks a great range of regional beers, including Summerskill’s, brewed just down the road. The local sailing school has an excellent reputation; there is boat hire, easy coastal walking and crabbing.

15. Waterman’s Arms, Ashprington

A waterside pub makes summer complete, and we defy you not to fall in love with the 17th-century Waterman’s Arms, overlooking tinkling Bow Creek, near Tuckenhay. Hidden away at the bottom of a steep valley, the streamside tables are perfect for savouring a pint of the fine Palmer’s Copper Ale. The lunches, sourced from local suppliers and served under an outdoor awning, attract foodies from as far away as Exeter and Plymouth. Another enticing option is the Maltsters Arms(01803 732350; tuckenhay.com) in Tuckenhay. On the River Dart, it has its own jetty and is big on open fires in winter and guest beers all year round.

16. Rising Sun, Lynmouth

Overlooking Lynmouth harbour, with dramatic views of Lynmouth Bay and Exmoor National Park, this 14th-century thatched smugglers’ inn is in one of Devon’s most picturesque locations. Inside, this Devon pub is wonderfully rickety and rambling, with a fire-lit bar, Exmoor cask ales, award-winning food and genial locals. It’s no wonder RD Blackmore felt compelled to write several chapters of his West Country classic, Lorna Doone, here. It also appealed to Percy Bysshe Shelley, who is thought to have spent his honeymoon there with his 16-year-old bride, Harriet, in 1812.

17. Warren House Inn, high Dartmoor

Since 1845, travellers across the moor have been stopping for refreshment at Warren House Inn, the highest inn in the southwest. Once a favourite Devon pub with local tin miners, it now serves up real ales, warming soups, ploughman’s lunches and local steak and ale pies to a mix of locals and tourists. Another special is their Warrener’s Pie, made with fresh-cooked rabbit.

18. Farmers Arms, Woolfardisworthy

A short drive from the coastal village of Clovelly, the Farmers Arms builds its dishes around ingredients foraged by staff from local hedgerows and coastlines, and from its dedicated organic farm, which is run under a ‘no-till’ sustainable agroforestry system. The result? A truly innovative, original and ever-changing menu that combines style, substance and scruples. Dishes during my visit included carrot and dog rose parfait, a riotously colourful goat’s cheese salad, roasted seabass with nasturtium, mussels and smoked trout, and for dessert, vanilla rice pudding with seabuckthorn, gorse rum and fig leaf sorbet. The décor is divine; the staff, dynamic. If you eat out only once in Devon, let it be here.

Devon's Best Activities

Clear away with cobwebs with our pick of the best things to do in Dartmoor and South Devon, including horse-riding, electric biking, clay-pigeon shooting and learning artisan skills from master craftsmen.  

Horse-riding

Shilstone Rocks Stables in Widecombe in the Moor is one of the most safety conscious stables around, and offers hacks in small groups tailored to experience. Also very good, and slightly cheaper, is Babeny Stables. Liberty Trails do weekend tours across Dartmoor. 

Fishing

Dartmoor is renowned for its sparkling clean rivers teeming wild brown trout, sea trout and salmon. Bovey Castle runs private fishing lessons. If you have a licence, stretches of the East and West Dart Rivers can be fished on the purchase of a Duchy of Cornwall permit, available at Postbridge Post Office. Fingle Bridge Inn sells daily permits. Information on lake fishing is available from the South West Lakes Trust. 

The Dartmoor Artisan Trail

This self-guided trail, founded by Suzy Bennett, Moorland View's owner, links the moor's finest artisans and gives visitors the chance to try out traditional Dartmoor skills. 

Cycling

Dartmoor Bike Hire, in Moretonhampstead, our next village, hire out hybrid, mountain, tandem and electric bikes, with prices starting at £18 per day. Dartmoor Electric Bikes also hire out electric bikes by the day and offer guided tours. 

Clay Pigeon Shooting

There are several clay pigeon outfits on Dartmoor, with the nearest ones at Bovey Castle and Devon Clay Shooting. 

Wild Swimming

Spitchwick is the place for this, with a leafy setting and clean water (that brown colour is healthy peat). There’s a gorgeous swimming and picnic spot with a high corner pool, a deep, tranquil lower corner pool for serious swimmers; and a cliff for daredevil jumpers. 

Hawking

Bovey Castle has an impressive free hawking display every morning at 10am. If you've always fancied yourself as a falconer, Dartmoor Hawking's Experience Day provides the chance to handle these powerful birds.

Llama walking

Perhaps the most unlikely of Dartmoor’s possible experiences, llama walking offers the opportunity to hike with a woolly companion (the animals are famed for their calm nature) who will also carry your lunch. There’s also the option of a llama-portered high tea which you can enjoy amongst the tors.

Watersports

River Dart Country Park  organize Adventure Days when visitors can experience caving, rock climbing, canoeing and much more. Salmon and sea trout fishing is another option. 

Canoeing and Kayaking

The River Dart is the most popular canoeing destination in the national park - River Dart Country Park runs guided excursions. Sea Kayak Devon run trips to otherwise-inaccessible coves and caves along the south coast.

Surfing

Discovery Surf School offer lessons for beginners through to advanced surfers from their base in Bigbury-On-Sea all year round. 

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Best Guided Tours

Horse-riding, walking tours, wildlife tours and vineyard tours - here are our favourite guided tours in Dartmoor and South Devon. 

Hound of the Baskervilles Tour

This one-day tour follows in the footsteps of Sherlock Holmes in Arthur Conan Doyle's The Hound of the Baskervilles, which is based on Dartmoor. Locations include tranquil village graveyards, churches with black magic associations, Bronze Age villages and moorland mires. Visit Unique Devon Tours..

Dartmoor Walking Tour

Qualified Moorland Guide and North Bovey resident Debbie Jenkins offers private hikes along old pack-horse tracks to ancient remains, stone circles, tin mines and tors. She’ll give you a history of Dartmoor and point out hard-to-spot wildlife. Call her on 01647 440053, or visit Moorland Guides.

Dartmoor Pub Tour

Discover hidden Dartmoor pubs with moorland native Tich Scott, who is an award-winning local dialect speaker. This leisurely tour takes in some of Dartmoor's best pubs, sampling locally brewed ales and ciders as you go. Tich also hosts bespoke tours. Visit Proper Dartmoor Tours for information.

Wildlife Tour

Butterfly walks, fungi forays, bird-watching and dusk walks  - Dartmoor Nature Tours offer private and group tours for bespoke interests. 

Dartmoor Scenic Tour

These one-day tours take in Dartmoor's highlights, including Haytor, Hound Tor, Grimspound, Fernworthy Stone Circle, Buckfast Abbey, Buckland-in-the-Moor, Widecombe in the Moor, Princetown and Dartmoor Prison. Tailor-made tours are also available. Visit Dartmoor Scenic Tours.

Hot Air Balloon Flight

Charter your own hot air balloon flight over beautiful Dartmoor with local company Aerosauraus. Flights take place at dawn and dusk so you can watching the sun rise or set from 3000ft, with 360-degree uninterrupted views - and a glass of chilled champagne. 

Electric Bike Tour

If you're put off cycling on Dartmoor by having to navigate country lanes and hills, Dartmoor Electric Bikes offer a range of half-day guided tours. 

 Stargazing Tour

This astronomical adventure, run by local tour guide Dartmoor's Daughter, points out, through specially set up telescopes, the visible constellations on the moor, tstar clusters, nebula and galaxies. Other tours include exploring stone circle and beginners' navigation.

Vineyard Tour

This Vine to Wine tour at Sharpham Vineyard on the banks of the River Dart, guides you through through the vineyard and winery and gives you a taste of their wines and award-winning cheeses along the way.

Dartmouth Paddle Steamer

This nostalgic cruise on the UK’s last remaining coal-fired paddle steamer, takes you up the Dart River, past Dartmouth and Kingswear Castles, Britannia Royal Naval College, Noss boat yard, the quaint village of Dittisham and the Greenway Estate, former home of the late Dame Agatha Christie. 

Sea Kayak Tour

Sea kayak outfit Sea Kayak Devon run trips to otherwise-inaccessible coves and caves along the south coast. You can even fish for your supper as you paddle. 

River Dart Picnic Boat

For a gourmet meal with a twist, hire the new Banquet Boat, which cruises up the River Dart in the spring and summer months. The two-hour session takes in views of Dartmouth Castle and the pretty village of Dittisham, while longer tours include the option of stopping off at Agatha Christie’s holiday home and wine-tasting on the Sharpham Estate. There’s cover in case of bad weather.

Divine Devon Towns and Villages

From divine Dartmoor villages to sun-soaked sailing towns, we round up our favourite places to visit in Dartmoor and South Devon.

Sun-soaked Salcombe

Chagford

This pretty stannary town is crammed with cafes, tea rooms, farm shops and delis. Check out Blacks for great light lunches and local farm produce, Moorland Dairy for delicious local ice-cream and Jaded Palates for a handpicked wine selection. Half-day closing on Wednesday afternoons. 

Ashburton

Ashburton

Dubbed the gateway to the moor, Ashburton is an elegant town whose fine slate-hung frontages house a well-to-do selection of delis, cafes and restaurants, most notably the Agaric Restaurant, the Fish Deli and Ashburton Deli. It's also a great place to stock up on antiques. 

Tavistock

Tavistock is the birthplace of Sir Francis Drake, and the UK's best market town according to the Campaign to Protect Rural England. What marks it out is its food. Country Cheeses showcases hundreds of the West Country's finest, and Crebers Delicatessen are both award winners. The farmers’ market fills elegant Bedford Square on the second and fourth Saturday of every month. 

Widecombe in the Moor

This remote 13th century village (above) is one of the moor's most picturesque. It has a lovely church, National Trust shop selling super-soft wool blankets and the tiny Rugglestone Inn, which has flagstone floors, open fires and Dartmoor and Butcombe Best Bitter poured straight from the barrel.

Widecombe in the Moor

Buckland in the Moor 

This hamlet is one of the most irresistibly pretty in the county, with a gorgeous scattering of thatched cottages and an ancient church. Stroll the hill above Buckland to find the ten commandments carved into an exposed rock.

Lustleigh

Everywhere you turn in the little village of Lustleigh you’re offered a postcard perfect view, from the ancient church to thatched cottages to the rolling hills of the surrounding Wrey Valley. Afternoon tea at the Primrose tea rooms offers all the scones, cream and loose-leaf tea your heart could desire. The village is famous for its show, and for lively May Day celebrations.

Dartmouth

Dartmouth

Undeniably pretty, this naval town on Devon's south coast is a gem, with ancient narrow streets, boutique shops, art galleries and delicatessens. A cobbled market place has colourful stalls and farmers markets supplying local produce. The county town of Dartmouth sits pretty on the River Dart estuary, and features a medieval castle, a museum housed in a 1640s merchant home, and a National Trust property – Agatha Christie’s home and walled garden Greenway. There’s no shortage of things to do in Dartmouth, including browsing its galleries, shopping in the one-off boutiques and eating the acclaimed seafood and local produce.

Salcombe

Salcombe is a gem of a town, with ancient narrow streets, pastel-coloured houses, boutique shops, art galleries, delicatessens and a bay bobbing with fishing boats. It’s a popular sailing destination, too, with ‘up-country’ yachtie visitors flock here in their hundreds in the summer. Island Street gives a taste of artisanal Salcombe – here you’ll find boat builders and art galleries, and even live lobster and crab on sale alongside buckets and spades, wetsuits, fishing tackle and chandlers. It’s also the home of local favourite Salcombe Dairy Ice Cream. You can strike out here for some of the outlying beaches, accessible from the South West Coastal Path, which runs through it. 

Exeter

Exeter, Devon’s congenial capital, has a fine Norman cathedral, a flourishing university, pretty Georgian streets, a few Roman ruins and a 14th century network of underground passages. The quayside has been attractively renovated, with antique and craft shops, cafés and pubs. 

Brixham

Topsham

The estuary-side town of Topsham is a delight: its narrow lanes wind towards the harbour, which is ringed with restaurants, pubs and antique shops. Other attractions include an appealing run of 18th-century Dutch-style gabled houses, a long riverside strand, huge antiques market on the quayside and the frilly Georgian Tea Rooms which are consistently voted the best in Devon. 

Brixham 

Tumbling down to the sea, this little fishing village makes for an idyllic day trip. A hundred boats dock daily at the famous fish market, and marine treats are a must for your lunch menu here: try the oysters, cockles and clams at harbourfront Claws, or get takeaway fish n chips at Rockfish by the market.

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Powderham Castle

Grimspound

One of the most complete examples of the moor’s prehistoric settlements, Grimspound is a stone enclosure littered with the leavings of 24 Bronze Age hut circles. First settled about 1300 BC, the village’s stone perimeter wall is thought to have stood at 1.7 metres high in places.

Okehampton Castle

An impressive Norman stronghold laid waste by Henry VIII, and one of the largest castle ruins in the south west, Okehampton Castle is mentioned in the Doomsday book. 

Dartmoor Prison

The Mad Axeman, Frank Mitchell and the Acid Bath Murderer were all inmates at gothic Dartmoor Prison in mist-wreathed Princetown. It has museum for the macabre-minded, featuring makeshift weapons and confiscated escape gear. including the time-honoured classic of knotted bed sheets.

Buckfast Abbey

Built by six monks between 1907-1938, Buckfast Abbey was laid on the foundations of the former abbey that was disbanded in 1538 on the orders of King Henry V111.

Castle Drogo

The last castle built in Britain, Lutyens-designed Castle Drogo, is a quasi-mediaeval granite pile housing a remarkable collection of venerable artefacts, such as 17th-century tapestries. One of our favourite walks, through Fingle Gorge, starts here.  

Museum of Dartmoor Life

Housed in a former granary, Okehampton's Museum of Dartmoor Life is a great starting point for history buffs. Fronted by a Victorian cobbled yard, it’s home to three floors of exhibits charting the social history of the moor from prehistoric times.

Greenway

Agatha Christie’s holiday home, in a beautiful setting on the River Dart, is much as it was when the crime writer stayed here seeking inspiration. Greenway has stunning gardens: don’t miss the peach house, winery and fernery. The ferry up the River Dart is a romantic way to arrive. 

Powderham Castle

One of the oldest family seats in Devon, Powderham Castle near Exeter belongs to the Earl of Devon and is set in its own deer park.

More to come …

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