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Town Guide: Bovey Tracey
A famous crafts centre and Dartmoor’s only whisky distillery - here’s our guide to the best things to do in Bovey Tracey.
Bovey Tracey has quality independent retailers, with delicatessens, high-class butchers, farm produce, and fair-trade shops. Here’s our guide to the best places to visit.
BOOK ACCOMMODATION NEAR BOVEY TRACEY
Devon Guild of Craftsmen
The Devon Guild is the largest contemporary crafts centre in the South West, displaying beautiful pieces in an idyllic riverside setting, this former millhouse on a river in Bovey Tracey stocks a lovely range of products made by local artisans, including pottery, wrought iron pieces, jewellery and leatherwork. There are art and craft exhibitions, housed in airy white-walled studios, and upstairs is a rustic café, which sells a delicious salads and homemade cakes.
Clare’s Preserves
Clare’s Preserves is an artisan producer of multi-award winning marmalades, jams, jellies, chutneys and relishes. Clare hand-makes her products in her Bovey Tracey kitchen in small batches, using traditional open pot methods and local producers wherever possible: honey from Dartmoor beekeepers, Peter and Adam; gin from Exmoor’s small batch distillery Wicked Wolf, cider vinegar from Ostlers Cider Mill, Barnstable. Fresh seasonal produce, such as rhubarb, damsons and soft fruits come from local growers, often being picked to order and delivered the next morning – by the afternoon it’s in a jar. Labels and packaging come from companies in Devon and Somerset and they even use UK-manufactured glass jars.
The Cheese Shed
Cheeses from the West Country - including Menallack and Devon Oke plus well-loved cheddars by Keen's, Montgomery's and Westcombe. There's Harbourne Blue, an unusual and delicious 'blue goat', Vulscombe and White Nancy - both goats' cheeses. Elmhirst and Nanterrow make up the soft, fresher cheeses.
Dartmoor Whisky Distillery
The whisky won’t be ready for a couple of years, but this new distillery - the first on Dartmoor - welcomes visitors and runs tours of the distillery and tastings.
Parke
A lovely walk through National Trust land, with a wonderful cafe, Home Park, which serves great brunches, lunches and cream teas, and is dog friendly.
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Town Guide: Moretonhampstead
Our guide to the best things to do and places to visit in Dartmoor’s artisan town, Moretonhampstead.
Sleepy Moretonhampstead is gaining a reputation as an artisan town, with Georgian streets crammed with artists and craftspeople. Here’s our guide to the best things to do and places to eat in Moretonhampstead.
MORETONHAMPSTEAD PUBS, RESTAURANTS AND CAFES
The Horse
You've got to love a place that bills itself as a 'pub and nosebag'. Despite the village location, The Horse is a hip gastropub that wouldn't feel out of place in the big city: it serves simple, well-done food including tapas, mussels, home-cured tuna, chargrilled rib-eye and lots of pizzas.
Cross Street Cafe
The Cross Street Cafe is perfect moorland refuelling stop: olives and local cheeses sit alongside pasties, pies and tempting cakes. It does takeaway hot drinks, too.
MORETONHAMPSTEAD SHOPS
Zero
Thislovely zero-waste shop is crammed with organic produce, including pastas, pulses, grains, granolas, chocolates, herbs, spices and dried fruit – all free of plastic and pesticides. You can buy just what you need for you holiday - the idea is you take your own container – whether it’s a Tupperware, tin can or reusable bag, fill up with food, weigh and pay. They have recyclable brown paper bags if you don’t have you own container. There’s not a plastic bag in sight, nor anything wrapped in the shiny stuff. This is a not-for-profit community project about consuming food and everyday products in a way that doesn’t cost the earth. Visit Zero Waste for more information.
Michael Howard’s
Michael Howard’s is a family-run butchers sells lamb from Sanduct in nearby Lustleigh, beef from Dexter or Belted Galaways, speciality sausages, fish landed in Brixham and meat cuts that you will not be able to find in supermarkets. The delicatessen selection includes Otter Vale chutneys, Midfields Granola, Underdown butter, Sharpham cheeses, Salcombe Dairy ice-cream and Creedy Carver chicken.
The Grocers
Sells fresh fruit and vegetables, along with local produce including organic Challon Farm milk.
BOOK A BREAK
Rent a beautiful thatched holiday cottage near Moretonhampstead, with prices starting at £130.
THINGS TO DO IN MORETONHAMPSTEAD
Green Shoes
With her company listed as one of world’s most ethical shoemakers, Alison Hastie and her small Green Shoes team hand-makes footwear to order, using full-grain leathers and vegan alternatives, in a beautiful chapel. Alison welcomes visitors. Please check her website for opening hours.
Greg Abel at The Forge
One of just a handful of blacksmiths left on Dartmoor, Greg works in a 150-year-old stone forge, where vintage farm and farriers’ tools, made by previous smithies, still hang from the rafters. Greg uses traditional coal in the original hearth rather than gas, which is now more commonly used, while hammer and anvil still his main tools. Greg’s products include gates, railings, fireside sets, weather vanes, rose arches, knives, coat hooks and shoe-scrapers, which he makes for the local community. Greg welcomes drop-ins, but please call beforehand. Greg runs short courses on which you can learn to make a fire poker, toasting fork, letter opener, coat hook or barbecue butler. His website has details.
Yuli Somme at Bellacouche
Bellacouche is the UK’s only remaining maker of burial shrouds, a funereal tradition dating from the 17th century, when law decreed that the dead must be buried in wool. Yuli also makes felt urns for cremated remains, hot-water bottle covers, tea cosies, pillows, seat pads and hats which she sells in her Moretonhampstead studio, which doubles as a Unitarian chapel. Yuli welcomes visitors. Prior arrangement not required. Please check her website for opening hours.
Penny Simpson Ceramics
From her pottery studio in the artisan town of Moretonhampstead, Penny makes earthenware pots inspired by nature, with fish, birds and leaves recurring themes. A keen foodie, Penny first love is creating pottery for cooking and dining such as mugs, jugs, bowls and plates. Penny's pottery is available to buy from her shop, just below her studio. Penny also runs taster potter sessions.
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Town Guide: Ashburton
Ashburton has an appealing mix of antiques shops, delis and cafes. We round up the best things to do.
Ashburton is an appealing blend of traditional, edge-of-the-moor town and bordering-on-chic retreat. Elegant terraces and granite cottages line its winding streets, and you can shop for everything from hiking rucksacks to upcycled antiques. It's an all-round pleasant place, and a good base for the southern area of Dartmoor.
THE BEST PLACES TO VISIT IN ASHBURTON
CAFES, PUBS AND RESTAURANTS
Moorish
BOOK A BREAK TO ASHBURTON
On West Street, there's Moorish, a restaurant producing dishes that are, well, Moorish and more-ish, while on North Street there's the Agaric which has been in the Good Food Guide for a decade. A nearby deli displays 50 local artisan cheeses and 12 salamis. I could go on, but you get the point – there may be only 3,500 residents but this town is Foodie Central.
Old Library
Chefs Joe and Amy describe themselves as 'locally grown' and this idea shines through in their simple but sophisticated food that showcases prime Devon produce.
Taylor’s Cafe
Wander inside Tea at Taylor’s and you’ll be greeted by a warm interior, antique furnished decor and the smell of freshly baked scones (gluten-free options are also available). There’s also a great cake, sandwiches and soup selection.
FOOD & DRINK SHOPS
The Fish Deli
The Fish Deli sells River Teign mussels, diver-caught scallops and haddock which is "not like the rubbish up north", according to the sign. There are other fruit and veg stores, a sandwich shop and upmarket takeaways, while the most recent arrival is Moor Chocolat! selling coconut ice and Venezuelan and Ghanaian cacao.
Ashburton Deli
Ashburton Deli sells 30 local artisan cheeses, some of which are produced by producer with his very own cave for ageing, air-dried ham from Ottery St Mary in Devon, pate from Exmoor, delicious cakes from Exeter, award winning salamis from Delabole in Cornwall, locally smoked fish and meat, tea picked in Cornwall, Cornish goat’s milk chocolates, preserves from Ashburton-based Wild Garden Preserves and Hog’s Bottom Garden Delights in Tavistock, locally-made meringues, macaroons and Laydilay eggs.
Moor Chocolate
Moor Chocolate is for lovers of all things sweet. Situated halfway up the high street, you’ll find a candy coloured building. Inside, all types of candy, chocolate, and other confectionery. Here, you’ll find a sweet tooth’s dream spread of sugary snacks.
Ella’s Artisan Bakers
You’ll need an early start to catch Ella’s delicious range of breads and cakes before they sell out.
THINGS TO DO IN ASHBURTON
Ashburton Antiques Trail
There are no less than 12 antiques shops crammed in Ashburton’s town centre, and the Ashburton Antiques Trail has a special map to guide you round them. There’s everything from Victoriana to fine-art. Our favourite is Alchemy Antiques, for its carefully curated selection of gorgeous furniture and homewares.
Ashburton Cookery School
Long-established cookery school, offering more than 40 courses in everything from breadmaking to teen cuisine, via fish filleting and food photography. Queen of all she surveys here is Stella West Harling, whose Ashburton Cookery School has taught 20,000 amateur and professional chefs during the past 17 years, including five who reached the televised stages of the BBC's 2009 Masterchef series.
Town Guide: Chagford
Foodie Chagford is a vibrant village with great shops and cafes. Here’s our guide to the best things to do.
One of the prettiest of the Dartmoor villages, Chagford's stone-walled cottages, whitewashed buildings and thatched roofs are set around a quintessential village square. It's a handsome, vibrant little village, with some great places to sleep and eat, and there are views over the tors practically everywhere you look.
CHAGFORD CAFES
The Birdcage, Chagford
The pretty little Bird Cage cafe on Chagford’s main square serves delicious lunches, as well as great breakfasts and brunches, made with fresh, local ingredients.
The Old Forge
Run by a fun, friendly husband-and-wife team, this small cafe makes a super spot for a light bite in Chagford, from spanish omelette and chicken-and-halloumi souvlaki to mini 'pizzaninis' and yummy homemade soups.
Whiddons Tea Room
In this old-world tearoom-bistro, traditional tastes rule, with menus full of venison, quail, duck and slow-cooked beef shin. It's all neatly and creatively done and the flavours are intense.
Folklore
East London meets Chagford. Exquisite salads.
Beachwood Bakery
California expat Julia Cotts started this jewel of a bakery with the help of funding from the local community. Try her renowned ‘Village Loaf’, an organic sourdough. Other favourites include spiced vegetable samosas, pastries, cakes, cinnamon buns, focaccias and freshly made soups. > Beachwood Bakery
CHAGFORD PUBS
Chagford Inn, Chagford
Under Head Chef, Russell Hamby, The Chagford Inn produces as much in-house as possible – ranging from baking their own bread to curing our own bacon, coppa, bresaola, salt beef, pastrami, fish and our version of Serrano ham. Their Dexter beef travels about half a mile from local farmer Richard ‘Elmo’ Ellis’s farm and is butchered and prepared totally in-house. Cuts and dishes change regularly … from rib eye steak through confit Dexter flank to roasted ox liver - no part of the animal is wasted. They don’t use stock cubes or anything ready prepared, and bones are roasted every morning to produce rich and delicious stocks. Menus change daily. At the time of writing, dishes included seared scallops with squid ink risotto, confit pork belly with puy lentil cassoulet and celeriac remoulade and, for dessert, plum and ginger crumble with ice cream or clotted cream. On Sunday lunchtime, they offer a traditional roast – always beef, occasionally, another roast meat – as well as a range of other dishes including vegetarian options. Dogs are welcome.
The Three Crowns
this part-thatched coaching inn in the pretty stannary town of Chagford dates back to the 15th century. Original fireplaces and granite walls are matched well with contemporary style; muddy boots (or paws) are welcome despite plush carpets. Vibrant dishes showcase ingredients that have been caught, reared or grown in the West Country, with fish from Newlyn, meat from Crediton, eggs from Chagford and vegetables from Topsham. There’s more fish on the à la carte menu than might be expected on Dartmoor, but that’s no bad thing. Starters include Cornish mackerel with heritage tomatoes and home-smoked squab pigeon. Seasonal mains include pan-roasted gurnard, beef fillet and spring lamb. The pub classics menu offers beer-battered market fish, butcher’s choice steak and bangers and mash. Sit by the inglenook fireplace to choose a tipple from Devon ales, ciders, wines, 21 gins and Luscombe and Frobisher’s soft drinks. Devon cream teas are available daily 12-5pm.
CHAGFORD SHOPS
Beachwood Bakery
California expat Julia Cotts started this jewel of a bakery with the help of funding from the local community. Try her renowned ‘Village Loaf’, an organic sourdough. Other favourites include spiced vegetable samosas, pastries, cakes, cinnamon buns, focaccias and freshly made soups. > Beachwood Bakery
Blacks Delicatessan
Walk into Blacks for one thing and you're likely to leave with half a dozen more. Tempting breads, cheeses and olives are stacked high, along with pies, pasties, and gourmet homemade quiches including leek and Stilton or spicy pepper with chorizo.
> More fabulous places to go food shopping in Devon
Jaded Palates
Not your ordinary wine shop: Ian Renwick, owner of Jaded Palates Wines, spent three years making wine in France, and now brings this knowledge and experience as he presents a fantastic range of wines and spirits... all with a story behind them.
Artisan
Artisan is a gallery selling the work of over 40 local artisans including unique jewellery, pottery, turned wood, forged iron feltwork, original artwork, prints and photographs.
Rue des Fontenelles
Founded in France, Rue des Fontenelles specialises in French antiques and interiors, stocking French and European antique art, decorative objects, accessories and ceramics in their gorgeous shop just off Chagford Square.
Bowdens
Bowdens is an Aladdin’s Cave of a shop, that seems to cram everything you’ll ever need into three floors. Come here for outdoor gear, including walking boots, maps and compasses.
BEST THINGS TO DO IN CHAGFORD
Walk along the River Teign
This walks leads to one of Dartmoor’s most famous walks, along the breathtaking River Teign. Park at Chagford Swimming Pool and pick up the footpath that traces the river, and makes a detour right up to the imposing bulk of Castle Drogo – the last castle to be built in England.
Chagford Swimming Pool
Just a ten-minute drive from North Bovey, Chagford Pool can't be far from heaven. Swallows nest in the changing rooms and dive-bomb the swimmers, and with the sound of the river Teign running past stepping stones, it's as relaxed as a swimming pool gets. It’s river fed, so is chilly.
Visit an artisan upholsterer
Follow the sounds of chamber music that waft around the backstreets of Chagford and you'll be led to the Georgian coachhouse where Stuart devotes himself to upholstering antique and modern furniture the traditional way. His is a wonderfully riotous workshop, where walls are hung with half-broken chairs, furniture springs and enormous rolls of webbing, and floors are scattered with off-cuts of damasks and fine silks, piles of lambswool and hessian bags overflowing with horse hair and shredded coconut husks. He welcomes drop-ins.
Make your own key fob
Leather worker Martin offers two-hour workshops from his shop, Artisan, on the high street. He has a hands-on approach to his craft, often visiting tanneries to select the perfect hides. He is pictured here sampling skins at J&FJ Baker & Co, the UK’s last remaining oak-bark tannery, in Colyton, East Devon. On Martin's workshop, you will learn basic leather skills and have the chance to produce your own bookmark or key fob. If you're fast, you might also get to make a leather bookcover.
Make your own silver ring
Working from a cosy studio in the centre of the ancient stannary town of Chagford, Miriam makes silver jewellery using designs inspired by the moors and wildlife that surrounds her. You can design your own silver ring with her with during a two-hour introductory session into silversmithing. You'll learn how to cut, file, solder, sand and polish your own ring, and finish it with different textures and patinas. Miriam is one of the few people in the UK to offer lovebirds the chance to design and make their own wedding rings. You can visit her shop by appointment. Visit Silver and Moor for information.
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Divine Devon Towns and Villages
From divine Dartmoor villages to sun-soaked sailing towns, we round up our favourite places to visit in Dartmoor and South Devon.
From divine Dartmoor villages to sun-soaked sailing towns, we round up our favourite places to visit in Dartmoor and South Devon.
Sun-soaked Salcombe
Chagford
This pretty stannary town is crammed with cafes, tea rooms, farm shops and delis. Check out Blacks for great light lunches and local farm produce, Moorland Dairy for delicious local ice-cream and Jaded Palates for a handpicked wine selection. Half-day closing on Wednesday afternoons.
Ashburton
Ashburton
Dubbed the gateway to the moor, Ashburton is an elegant town whose fine slate-hung frontages house a well-to-do selection of delis, cafes and restaurants, most notably the Agaric Restaurant, the Fish Deli and Ashburton Deli. It's also a great place to stock up on antiques.
Tavistock
Tavistock is the birthplace of Sir Francis Drake, and the UK's best market town according to the Campaign to Protect Rural England. What marks it out is its food. Country Cheeses showcases hundreds of the West Country's finest, and Crebers Delicatessen are both award winners. The farmers’ market fills elegant Bedford Square on the second and fourth Saturday of every month.
Widecombe in the Moor
This remote 13th century village (above) is one of the moor's most picturesque. It has a lovely church, National Trust shop selling super-soft wool blankets and the tiny Rugglestone Inn, which has flagstone floors, open fires and Dartmoor and Butcombe Best Bitter poured straight from the barrel.
Widecombe in the Moor
Buckland in the Moor
This hamlet is one of the most irresistibly pretty in the county, with a gorgeous scattering of thatched cottages and an ancient church. Stroll the hill above Buckland to find the ten commandments carved into an exposed rock.
Lustleigh
Everywhere you turn in the little village of Lustleigh you’re offered a postcard perfect view, from the ancient church to thatched cottages to the rolling hills of the surrounding Wrey Valley. Afternoon tea at the Primrose tea rooms offers all the scones, cream and loose-leaf tea your heart could desire. The village is famous for its show, and for lively May Day celebrations.
Dartmouth
Dartmouth
Undeniably pretty, this naval town on Devon's south coast is a gem, with ancient narrow streets, boutique shops, art galleries and delicatessens. A cobbled market place has colourful stalls and farmers markets supplying local produce. The county town of Dartmouth sits pretty on the River Dart estuary, and features a medieval castle, a museum housed in a 1640s merchant home, and a National Trust property – Agatha Christie’s home and walled garden Greenway. There’s no shortage of things to do in Dartmouth, including browsing its galleries, shopping in the one-off boutiques and eating the acclaimed seafood and local produce.
Salcombe
Salcombe is a gem of a town, with ancient narrow streets, pastel-coloured houses, boutique shops, art galleries, delicatessens and a bay bobbing with fishing boats. It’s a popular sailing destination, too, with ‘up-country’ yachtie visitors flock here in their hundreds in the summer. Island Street gives a taste of artisanal Salcombe – here you’ll find boat builders and art galleries, and even live lobster and crab on sale alongside buckets and spades, wetsuits, fishing tackle and chandlers. It’s also the home of local favourite Salcombe Dairy Ice Cream. You can strike out here for some of the outlying beaches, accessible from the South West Coastal Path, which runs through it.
Exeter
Exeter, Devon’s congenial capital, has a fine Norman cathedral, a flourishing university, pretty Georgian streets, a few Roman ruins and a 14th century network of underground passages. The quayside has been attractively renovated, with antique and craft shops, cafés and pubs.
Brixham
Topsham
The estuary-side town of Topsham is a delight: its narrow lanes wind towards the harbour, which is ringed with restaurants, pubs and antique shops. Other attractions include an appealing run of 18th-century Dutch-style gabled houses, a long riverside strand, huge antiques market on the quayside and the frilly Georgian Tea Rooms which are consistently voted the best in Devon.
Brixham
Tumbling down to the sea, this little fishing village makes for an idyllic day trip. A hundred boats dock daily at the famous fish market, and marine treats are a must for your lunch menu here: try the oysters, cockles and clams at harbourfront Claws, or get takeaway fish n chips at Rockfish by the market.
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Devon's Best Towns For Shopping
Farm shops, antiques shops, homewares shops and art galleries - here’s our guide to the best places to shop in Devon.
Farm shops, antiques shops, home shops and craft stores - here’s our guide to the best places to shop in Devon.
Pottery
Chagford
This pretty stannary town is crammed with cafes, tea rooms, farm shops and delis. Check out wood-panelled Blacks for great light lunches, local produce and cheeses, Jaded Palates for a wines, local gins and ales and the Courtyard Cafe for healthy lunches and organic produce. The town has half-day closing on Wednesday afternoons.
Ashburton
Antiques in Ashburton
Dubbed the gateway to the moor, Ashburton is an elegant town whose fortunes were founded on cloth and mining. It is one of Dartmoor’s four stannary towns, where tin was bought to be taxed – and its fine slate-hung frontages house a well-to-do selection of antique shops, delis, cafes and restaurants. Most notable of the latter is the Fish Deli and Ashburton Deli.
Devon Guild of Craftsmen
The Devon Guild is the largest contemporary crafts centre in the South West, displaying beautiful pieces in an idyllic riverside setting, this former millhouse on a river in Bovey Tracey stocks a lovely range of products made by local artisans, including pottery, wrought iron pieces, jewellery and leatherwork. There are art and craft exhibitions, housed in airy white-walled studios, and upstairs is a rustic café, which sells a delicious salads and homemade cakes. There’s also variety of workshops on offer that might persuade you to try your hand at knitting, calligraphy, printmaking or weaving.
Tavistock
The ancient town of Tavistock has one of the oldest markets in existence. Tavistock Pannier Market was granted a Royal Charter in 1105, and has been operating here without a break ever since. It sells antiques and crafts with themed markets on a Saturday, and is in a wonderful castellated Victorian building. Just outside the market is Country Cheeses, a Devon shop that sells hundreds of British cheeses, mostly sourced from the West Country. Try crumbly Totnes special Ticklemore Goat, the shop’s own Little Stinky, or Devon sage.
Totnes
Totnes
Hippyish Totnes is a place where the independent spirit is cherished – they even have their own currency, the Totnes pound. This is the place to shop for wholefoods, eco and organic stores. Social Fabric on the High Street sells bright yarns and fabrics and also run a variety of craft workshops, from lampshade-making to felting. Aromatika sells organic and natural skincare products, while Arcturus Books stock mind, body and spirit titles. The Seeds2Bakery uses only local organic stone ground flour, while the Wild Fig Deli specialises in gluten-free and vegetarian food. Drift Records stock new music, with a policy that ranges from left field minimal tech house to home-recorded roots music from the Appalachian Mountains. Riverford Organic farm shop sells wonderful local cheeses. rtistic education centre Dartington Hall also houses an unusual shopping experience – you’ll find everything here, including natural beauty products, colourful kitchenware and a classy food shop, where 80% of the produce stocked is made, reared or grown in the West Country. At the lovely Re-Store shop, volunteer artists restore and upcycle old materials into covetable homewares. And the Tanner Bates Leather School produces hand-stitched and high quality leather goods, from luggage tags to messenger bags.
Topsham
The estuary-side town of Topsham is a delight: its narrow lanes wind towards the harbour, which is ringed with restaurants, pubs and antique shops. Other attractions include an appealing run of 18th-century Dutch-style gabled houses, a long riverside strand, huge antiques market on the quayside. Many shops close on Sundays.
Exeter
Pedestrianised Princesshay centre is the place to go for chain stores, with independent shops centred around the Castle Quarter. Silver Lion on Gandy Street, sells hand-made and Fairtrade jewellery from around the world, while Crede sells designer fashion. Fore Street is at the heart of the hip and historic West Quarter, where you can shop for vintage clothing and electric guitars amongst the half-timbered buildings. The Real McCoy in McCoy’s Arcade has sells one-off pre-loved garments including ball gowns and retro leather, while No Guts No Glory sells artist-designed organic T-shirts, art magazines, cards and prints. Exeter is also home to the Original Surfboard Company, which produces beautiful wooden boards, as well as funky board bags.
Honiton
The small market town of Honiton has no less than 85 antiques shops, selling everything from carriage clocks to leather-bound books. Most have stalls at Fountain Antiques, on the High Street, with a handful selling the lace for which Honiton was once famed. Honiton Fine Arts sells gorgeous mid-century English oil paintings, while Strummer Pink, sells colourful artwork, mirrors, lighting, rugs and blankets made by local artisans. Take a breather at rustic café Toast.
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Day Trip: Totnes
A castle, stunning vineyard and some of Devon’s best shopping, Totnes is an all-round crowd-pleaser. Here’s a selection of our favourite things to do.
THINGS TO DO IN TOTNES
A Norman castle, stunning vineyard and some of Devon’s best shopping, Totnes is an all-round crowd-pleaser. Here’s a selection of our favourite things to do on a day out in Totnes.
Totnes Castle
SIGHTSEEING
Totnes Castle
High on a hilltop above town, Totnes Castle is among the best-preserved examples of a Norman 'motte and bailey' castle (a round keep sitting on a raised earthwork). The views over Totnes's rooftops and the South Hams beyond are captivating, but the interior is largely empty. Look out for the medieval toilet (but don't use it).
Totnes Fashion & Textiles Museum
Beautifully displayed 18th- to 20th-century garments, Totnes Fashion Museum is set in one of Totnes' finest Tudor merchant's houses.
Dartington Estate
Henry VIII gave this pastoral 324-hectare estate to two of his wives (Catherines Howard and Parr). For many years Dartington Estate was home to the town's art college; now the 14th-century manor house hosts events, including renowned classical-music and literature festivals. There's also an art-house cinema. The grounds are also worth exploring. It's about 2 miles northwest of Totnes. Dartington's 14th-century manor house edges a grassy space reminiscent of an Oxbridge quadrangle. In the landscaped gardens impressive terraced banks frame an area known as the Tiltyard, while flower-filled borders lead down to glades, meadows and thatched cottages. Amid the tiny paths and secret benches you can hunt out Henry Moore's carved stone sculpture Memorial Figure, the swirling bobbles of Peter Randall Page's Jacob's Pillow and the bronze Donkey by Willi Soukop. The Japanese Garden, complete with raked gravel and cedar-wood shelter, is beside the ruined church.
Sharpham Vineyard
Three miles south of Totnes off the A381, Sharpham Vineyard is chiefly known for its crisp, sparkling white wines, as well as its delicious cheeses. Perched above the meandering River Dart, it's become one of the UK's best-known winemakers. You can explore the vine-covered slopes solo, followed by a wine and/or cheese tasting in the shop, or plump for the full guided tour. After a tour of the vines, sit down for delicious food from a daily-changing blackboard menu at the rustic bistro of Sharpham Wine & Cheese. The choices revolve around local treats, so expect smoked fish, crab salad and Lyme Bay scallops, as well as the estate's own wines and cheeses. It's all delicious. Book ahead. Opens longer hours in summer.
Berry Pomeroy Castle
Two miles east of Totnes, this ruined castle was originally built by the feudal Pomeroys in the 15th century. Within the walls is a second stronghold, a Tudor mansion constructed by Edward Seymour, the 1st Duke of Somerset. Unfortunately, the Seymour clan's fortunes turned for the worse after the English Civil war, and by 1700 Berry Pomeroy was nothing more than a ruin – and has remained so ever since. It's notorious for ghostly goings-on.
SHOPPING
Totnes High Street
Hippyish Totnes is a place where the independent spirit is cherished – they even have their own currency, the Totnes pound. This is the place to shop for wholefoods, eco and organic stores. Aromatika sells organic and natural skincare products made in Devon, while Arcturus Books stock mind, body and spirit titles. The Seeds2Bakery uses only local organic stone ground flour, while the Wild Fig Deli specialises in gluten-free and vegetarian food. Drift Records stock new music, with a policy that ranges from left field minimal tech house to home-recorded roots music from the Appalachian Mountains. Me and East and Busby and Fox both sell gorgeous homewares.
Earth Food Love
Earth Food Love, which opened on Totnes High Street in March 2017, deserves a special mention for being the first zero-waste shop in the UK. Inside, almost every inch of the modestly sized shop is crammed with a dispenser of some sort, for everything from pulses, grains and dried fruit to detergents and bamboo toothbrushes – all organic and free of plastic and pesticides. They’re ahead of the game on the anti-plastic revolution and have become the pin-ups for others doing the same, from the Bulk Market in east London to other people around the country wanting to follow suit. The idea is you take your own container – whether it’s a Tupperware, tin can or reusable bag (they’ve even had someone using pillowcases), fill up with food, weigh and pay. There’s not a plastic bag in sight, nor anything wrapped in the shiny stuff. For them, it’s not about making a profit; it’s about consuming food and everyday products in a way that doesn’t cost the earth.
The Shops At Dartington
Artistic education centre Dartington Hall also houses an unusual shopping experience – you’ll find everything here, including natural beauty products, colourful kitchenware and a classy food shop, where 80% of the produce stocked is made, reared or grown in the West Country. At the lovely Re-Store shop, volunteer artists restore and upcycle old materials into covetable homewares. And the Tanner Bates Leather School produces hand-stitched and high quality leather goods, from luggage tags to messenger bags.
Nkuku
Signposted by a fashionably rusting modernist sign, Nkuku, on the outskirts of Totnes, is a rustic-chic repository of artisan creations from India, Vietnam and Africa – all handpicked by husband-and-wife team Alex and Alistair Cooke. Think pyramid terrariums created by a latch maker in Uttar Pradesh, hand-loomed Rajasthani block-print jute rugs, ceramics, pretty Mawia bead bracelets made in West Bengal, and Kadira leather journals crafted in Delhi. They have a lovely cafe.
Conker
A special shout out goes to Totnes institution Conker, who will knock you up a pair of distinctive, bespoke brogues for a surprisingly decent price.
EATING AND DRINKING
The Almond Thief, Dartington
The sourdough bread at craft bakery The Almond Thief is legendary, but they’ve also just branched out into a cafe business, serving a cracking artisan breakfast. The menu changes weekly, but look out for Bob’s dynamic poached eggs from neighbouring Huxham’s Cross Farm, served on sourdough with Rust Pig 24-month cured ham and asparagus. Wash it down with a cup of Crankhouse coffee.
The Curator
This Italian cafe has a cult-like following with Devon coffee aficionados and is lauded for its espresso. The brunch menu runs all day. Go for poached eggs served with either crispy prosciutto, house-made sausage or roasted peppers and avocado. Another favourite at The Curator is the Italian BLT, served on freshly-made focaccia.
Riverford Field Kitchen
This ecofriendly, organic, plough-to-plate farm is where everyone wants to eat when they visit Totnes. Riverford Field Kitchen began as a food-box scheme, and has now branched out into a delightful barn bistro, where diners sit communally at long wooden tables and share dishes of the day. Rustic flavours rule: expect delicious salads, roast meats and imaginative veggie options. Bookings required.
Sharpham Wine and Cheese
After a tour of the vines, sit down for delicious food from a daily-changing blackboard menu at the rustic bistro of Sharpham Wine & Cheese. The choices revolve around local treats, so expect smoked fish, crab salad and Lyme Bay scallops, as well as the estate's own wines and cheeses. It's all delicious. Book ahead. Opens longer hours in summer.
Mangetout
There’s breakfast, and then there is breakfast from Mangetout. Take up a seat out the front to watch Totnes wander by, take over the small interior, or better yet, find a seat in shaded courtyard out back. Their smoothies are incredible, as is the smashed avocado on sourdough, with a poached egg on top and a side of bacon.
New Lion Brewery
Craft beer with community spirit: this microbrewery is locally owned and run by Totnes residents, with profits helping to support the town's economy. The three core beers are the classic Mane Event bitter, hoppy Pandit IPA and silky Totnes Stout. The shop is open every day, but the brewery bar is only open on Friday and Saturday evenings.
The Hairy Barista
Aeropress, cold-brew, V60, flat white or just plain-old espresso, the aptly named Hairy Barista (aka Roe Yekutiel) will oblige – his little shop has become the town's go-to place for speciality coffee. There are cakes and pastries on offer too, but the space is a little cramped inside (and mind the step on the way in!).
The Totnes Brewing Co
The Totnes Brewing Co is situated at the bottom of Totnes Castle. As well as brewing their own craft beers right in the bar on a weekly basis they also stock a huge range of guest craft ales & ciders - local and international. If you love craft beer this is a must with "probably" the largest selection of beers and ciders in the area (usually over 100). The beer garden is a perfect spot from which to admire the Castle and the bar is warm and cosy at night - with an open fire on cold days. Food platters to go with beer are served during the holiday season and people are welcome to bring their own food when the kitchen is closed - they are dog friendly and have free wifi. Children welcome during the day and early evening.
Nkuku Cafe
From the company’s base in an uber-cool barn conversion, Nkuku sells its range of ethical, handmade homewares online. What many customers don’t realize as they’re buying its beautiful ceramic cereal bowls or wooden serving platters is that Nkuku also has a shop and café at its Devon HQ. A calming, earthy, stripped-back space, it’s the perfect setting for artisan, wood-roasted coffee from the nearby Curator Café, homemade cakes and brownies and deli boards laid with locally sourced cheeses and cured meats. Its sunny, south-facing courtyard is a great spot to while away an afternoon.
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Day Trip: Salcombe
Sun-soaked and salty, the pastel-hued sailing town of Salcombe makes a wonderful day trip from Moorland View.
Sun-soaked and salty, the pastel-hued sailing town of Salcombe makes a great day out. Here are some ideas for the best things to do on a day trip.
1. Amble around town
Salcombe is a gem of a town, with ancient narrow streets, pastel-coloured houses, boutique shops, art galleries, delicatessens and a bay bobbing with fishing boats. It’s a popular sailing destination, too, with ‘up-country’ yachtie visitors flock here in their hundreds in the summer. Island Street gives a taste of artisanal Salcombe – here you’ll find boat builders and art galleries, and even live lobster and crab on sale alongside buckets and spades, wetsuits, fishing tackle and chandlers. It’s also the home of local favourite Salcombe Dairy Ice Cream.
2. Bask on the beach
It’s hard to choose from the array of beauties on the south coast, but Mill Bay, a quick ferry ride across the water from Salcombe, tops our list for being seaweed-free and warmed by the sun all day. In the summer, it gets busy, so take an Ordnance Survey map to walk to quieter coves further up the coast, or hire a tender boat from town. Further west along the coast, at Bantham beach, wetsuits outnumber bikinis on south Devon’s only surf beach. Look out for stand-up paddle surfers, a quirky new take on the sport. Our other favourite beaches near Salcombe include Thurlestone Sands, South Sands and Soar Mill Cove. Read our guide to Devon’s best beaches for more information.
3. Walk the South West Coastal Path
Britain’s longest footpath traces the north and south coasts of Devon, offering easy access to wild and windswept cliffs, secluded sandy coves and tiny hamlets. The three-hour walk from Bolt Tail, near Hope Cove, to Bolt Head, near Salcombe, is our favourite, offering perfect beaches and jagged headlands. For a longer walk, start further up the coast at Bantham, and stop off at The Beach House (www.beachhousedevon.com) at South Milton Sands for lunch en route. Start Point is another popular coastal walk, with a characterful pub, the Pig’s Nose, at one end (see below).
4. Drink in an old pirate’s island haunt
The Pilchard Inn is a creaky, weather-beaten smugglers inn dating from 1336 oozing with swashbuckling history: ask about the pirates’ escape tunnel. Getting there is all part of the fun. Perched on the tiny, tidal outcrop of Burgh Island, surrounded by sandy beaches and choppy seas, it’s cut off from the mainland twice a day so you’ll need to consult a tide table when planning your visit. When the seas have parted, it’s a short walk across the spit. When the waters start coming in, a high-sided ‘sea tractor’ ferries passengers. TQ7 4BG
5. Have dinner at art deco Burgh Island
This vintage art deco hotel is perched atop a privately owned island just off the south Devon coast, and is much as it was when Winston Churchill, Noel Coward and Agatha Christie beat a path to its door in its 1930s heyday. Non-residents can only dine there on Sundays. Booking essential. TQ7 4BG
6. Hang ten
Discovery Surf School offer lessons for beginners through to advanced surfers from their base in Bigbury-On-Sea all year round. A two-hour beginner lesson is £38. TQ7 4AR
7. Eat crispy squid at The Beach House
This weather-beaten clapboard shack overlooking the dramatic sea arch of Thurlestone is right on the beach, making it a perfect pit stop for a coastal walk. Crab cakes, crispy squid and bacon sandwiches are served up on rustic wooden tables in an amiable atmosphere. Check ahead for opening times. TQ7 3JY.
8. Shuck oysters
Don’t be put off by the garish décor at this former oyster farm: the freshness of the oysters at The Oyster Shack is famous. Handpicked from the River Avon less than half a mile away, the meaty molluscs are served with a huge selection of mouth-watering sauces. TQ7 4BE.
9. Eat at The Millbrook Inn
Probably the only place in Devon where pigs’ trotter patties and escargots appear on the same menu, this cosy pub is old school Devon meets French auberge. On a babbling brook and close to a tranquil creek, it’s accessible by boat from Salcombe so, in summer, yachtie crowds come and go with the tides. There’s live gypsy Jazz every Sunday and fish barbecues in the summer. TQ7 2RW
10. Drink at the Pigs Nose, East Prawl
South west of Salcombe, on a beautiful stretch of coastal path, is this whitewashed smuggler’s inn. Run by a delightfully eccentric music manager, its played host to The Animals, The Yardbirds, the Boomtown Rats and Curiosity Killed the Cat,and still stages regular acts. The knitting corner is for customers who prefer a quieter pint. TQ7 2B.
11. Have lunch at the Winking Prawn
With a salty location on the North Sands, the Winking Prawn beach café and BBQ is the perfect stop for a sunny lunch, ice cream or the inevitable cream tea. Cracked crab, lobster and sea bream fillets are amongst the main course attractions.
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Day Trip: Dartmouth
Dartmouth is one of Devon’s most beautiful coastal towns. Here are our favourite things to do and see.
Castles, beaches and the best fish and chips in Devon - Dartmouth is one of Devon’s liveliest coastal towns. Here are some ideas for the best things to do on a day trip to Dartmouth.
Wander around town
Dartmouth is a gem of a town, with ancient narrow streets, boutique shops, art galleries and delicatessens. A cobbled market place has colourful stalls and farmers markets supplying local produce.
Eat fish and chips by the sea
Serving one of the best fish and chips in Devon, the Rock Fish Grill is a stylish beach shack-style takeaway and restaurant on Dartmouth’s harbour run by celebrity chef Mitch Tonks. The menu includes locally-landed scallops and oysters, along with classics such as jellied eels, cockles, cracked crab and potted shrimp.
Sea kayaking with Sea Kayak Devon
Totnes
Boat up the River Dart
Winding its way from Dartmoor to the port of Dartmouth on the South Devon coast, the Dart is grown-up’s playground in the summer, with yachts and pleasure boats plying between beaches, historic sites, villages and vineyards. You can hire your own boat from Dartmouth Boat Hire Company to explore the banks, creeks, quays and settlements along the Dart, or even carry on all the way to Totnes (tide permitting). Or take a trip on the Dartmouth Paddle Steamer, the UK’s last remaining coal-fired paddle steamer, which passes Bayards Cove, Warfleet Cree and Dartmouth Castle.
Hire your own picnic boat
For a picnic with a difference, hire a private boat up the Dart. You can stop off in little bays to go crabbing, or take a vineyard tour at Sharpham. There’s cover in case of bad weather. A one-hour trip for two with champagne and dressed lobster is £165. Longer trips available.
Go sea kayaking
Sea kayak outfit Sea Kayak Devon run trips to otherwise-inaccessible coves and caves along the south coast. Watch out for seals trying to hitch a lift!
Visit Agatha Christie’s home
Agatha Christie’s private holiday home on the River Dart is much as it was when the crime writer stayed here seeking inspiration for her books. First editions line the shelves, along with family photos and collections of botanical china and archaeological finds. Even if you’re not a fan, the house is worth a visit for its beautiful setting on the River Dart and gardens: don’t miss the peach house, winery and fernery. You can drive, but the most scenic way to arrive is by the Greenway Ferry, which takes you there on a 30-minute cruise. Closed winter.
Enjoy a waterside tipple
A waterside pub makes summer complete, and we defy you not to fall in love with the 17th-century Waterman’s Arms, overlooking tinkling Bow Creek, near Tuckenhay. Hidden away at the bottom of a steep valley, the streamside tables are perfect for savouring a pint of the fine Palmer’s Copper Ale. The lunches, sourced from local suppliers and served under an outdoor awning, attract foodies from as far away as Exeter and Plymouth. Another enticing option is the Maltsters Arms in Tuckenhay. On the River Dart, it has its own jetty and is big on open fires in winter and guest beers all year round.
Visit Coleton Fishacre
For an evocative glimpse of jazz-age glamour, drop by the former home of the D'Oyly Carte family of theatre impresarios. Built in the 1920s, its faultless art deco embellishments include original Lalique tulip uplighters, comic bathroom tiles and a stunning saloon – complete with tinkling piano. The croquet terrace leads to deeply shelved subtropical gardens and suddenly revealed vistas of the sea. Hike the 4 miles along the cliffs from Kingswear, or drive.
Blackpool Sands
Dartmouth Castle
Hit the beach
Set beneath wooded cliffs, Blackpool sands is a beautiful mile-long, privately owned sweep of shingle that attracts families in their droves during the school holidays. By day, swimmers can practise their dives from a floating dock, and the beach café stays open beyond sunset.
Eat at the Seahorse
What celebrity chef Rick Stein is to Cornwall, Mitch Tonks is to Devon – a seafood supremo, with a clutch of restaurants across the county. The Seahorse is the original, and the best: a classic fish restaurant where the just-landed produce is roasted over open charcoals. Leather banquettes, wood floors and a wine wall give it a French-bistro feel. Book ahead.
Shoot clay pigeons
Ashcombe Adventure Centre is the best clay pigeon shooting centre in Devon, offering expert tuition.
Visit Dartmouth Castle
For over 600 years, Dartmouth Castle kept the town safe from the envious eyes of pirates, privateers and foreign navies. In the late 15th century, a 250 m iron chain was raised between Kingswear Castle and Dartmouth to further bolster the town’s defences. In the centuries that followed, several other improvements were made, which you can learn about as you explore the interior of the castle. These days, the role of Dartmouth Castle is to attract visitors to the town rather than keep them at bay – a new job to which it’s turned its hand with admirable skill! When the sun is shining, take the castle ferry from the pontoon to Dartmouth Castle and make it a full day out. Recently, the Castle Tea Rooms have been renovated almost beyond recognition – when the sun’s out it’s well worth a walk from the centre of Dartmouth just to enjoy a light snack or drink, whether or not you intend to actually enter the castle. The Estuary view makes it an ideal setting for an al fresco bite.
Go on a steam railway
Dartmouth Steam Railway and River Boat Company provides a great day out which begins in Dartmouth and also takes in Paignton and Totnes, giving you the chance to see the area by ferry, steam train and bus.
Britannia Royal Naval College
The imposing building crowning the hills above Dartmouth was built in 1905 and is where the Royal Navy still trains all its officers. Guides lead you around the stately rooms and grounds, recounting the building's history and tales of its students. Alumni include Princes Charles and Andrew, and it's also where the Queen first met the Duke of Edinburgh in 1939. Visits are by prebooked guided tour only; the pick-up point is in central Dartmouth. Bring photo ID.
Alf Resco
This indie cafe is the preferred hang-out for a variety of discerning Dartmouthians, from yachties to families, tourists and riverboat crews. The same menu is available throughout the day: copious all-day breakfasts, toasties and chunky baguettes are the mainstays, and the coffee is great.
Bayard's Cove
It's worth tracking down Dartmouth's quaintly cobbled Bayard's Cove, the quay from which the Pilgrim Fathers set sail to America, having put into Dartmouth for repairs.
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